Sauces

Many cooks are intimidated by sauces and salad dressings.  I just don’t understand why. Bottled dressings/sauces are often loaded with sodium, sugar, colorants, artificial flavorings and preservatives – Why bother? When many of these sauces are really quite easy and quick to make yourself!

Au jus

My first Sunday lunch at the Boyers, my then future mother in law,  LouLou served a roast beef with “au jus” (the natural meat juices).  My favorite way to eat it. But I could not understand how she got a full gravy boat of natural juices. When asked she just laughed and said it was “simple”. No further explanation. So simple that not one of my 200+ French cookbooks explain how to make Au Jus. Well it may be too simple for them to explain, but once I became a Boyer - I got her to show me.. And here it is – really very simple! 

Under and around the roasting meat, place chopped shallots. As the juices drip from the meat, the shallots caramelize. Before they blacken and burn, add a cup of water. As the liquid evaporates  keep adding a little water at a time. When the roast is done, just whisk the water and meat drippings. That is Au Jus! Très simple!

Mustard Vinaigrette  (2 minutes!!)

At the bottom of the salad bowl, place 1 tspn of Dijon mustard. (I prefer, Maille, sold at Marona’s and Adam’s). Add 1Tbspn of red wine vinegar ( My choice is Dal Raccolta, I buy it at Quattros). Season. before you add the oil, because salt does not mix with oil). Add one tbspn of peanut oil. Whisk until thickens. Add 2nd tbspn of peanut oil. Whisk until thicker. Add 3rd tbspn of peanut oil. Whisk again. VOILA! French Salad Dressing! For green salads, chop up shallots or Vidalia Onions and marinate in the dressing (for a few minutes to a few hours). Place washed, spun dry salad greens on top. Wait until serving time to toss. Simple enough!

Garlic Vinaigrette  (2 minutes!!)

At the bottom of the salad bowl, place 1 tbspn of red wine vinegar, add one or two cloves of crushed garlic. Season. Whisk. Add one tablespoon of olive oil (cold first press). Whisk until thick. Add second tablespoon of olive oil. Whisk. Add third tablespoon of olive oil. Whisk. VOILA! 

Mayonnaise   (3 minutes!)

At the bottom of small bowl, place 1 tspn of Dijon mustard and the yellow of one raw egg. Whisk. Add salt & pepper. Slowly drizzle a little peanut oil into egg yolk mixture whisking briskly. As the sauce thickens and lightens it is emulsifying. At that point you can whisk less strenously as you slowly drizzle the rest of one cup of peanut oil into the mixture. It should be thick and fluffy holding its shape by itself. Whisk in 1 teaspoon of red wine vinegar and serve! (Do not refrigerate - do not save any old mayonaise. No preservatives so it does not hold up well. Next time you want some, take another three minutes to make some more!

Bechamel Sauce (12 minutes)

In a saucepan over low heat, melt 2 tbspns of butter and whisk in 2 tbspns of flour. While constantly whisking, slowly add (¼ cup at a time) two cups of milk (I use skim ). It will thicken.. Remove from heat. Add salt, pepper and a touch of nutmeg. The French usually use this very simple white sauce in baked recipes instead of cream.

Mornay Sauce (13 minutes)

Add ½ cup of grated cheese (gruyere or cheddar) to a Bechamel Sauce.

Mushroom Saucec (14 minutes)
Add sauteed mushrooms to a Bechamel Sauce.

Alfredo Sauce (7 minutes)

Melt ¼ cup of butter in a medium saucepan over medium low heat. Add 1 cup cream and simmer for 5 minutes, then add 1 clove crushed garlic and 1½cups parmesan cheese and whisk quickly, heating through. Stir in ¼ cup chopped parsley and serve.

Mustard Cream Sauce (5 minutes)

Boil and reduce the ¼ cup of light cream in a small saucepan for 4 to 5 minutes over low heat. Add 3 tablespoons of grainy mustard and 1 tablespoon of Dijon mustard. Pepper slightly and serve.

Reduction Sauce ( 8-10 minutes).
Before serving any meat or poultry braised in liquid, remove the meat and keep warm. Take out and reserve all but one cup of the liquid. Turn up the heat until it boils. Thicken by adding a tablespoon of cornstarch. Whisk the boiling liquid until it thickens add remaining liquid a 1/2 cup at a time - continuously whisking and reducing liquid to a nice thick sauce. Spoon on to coat meat and serve the rest in a gravy boat!

Red Wine Sauce (15 minutes)

In a sauce pan place 2 cups of Pinot Noir or Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar, 3 chopped shallots, 1 teaspoon of sugar, salt and pepper. Put on medium high flame and reduce to less than half. (Add 1 tspn of arrowroot to 1 tablespoon of hot wine sauce and then put into the casserole if it does not thicken by itself). Add 1 cup of veal stock, bring to a boil and filter before serving hot with red meat or game.

We love getting your feedback, please send comments to RonaBoyer@gmail.com.

All You Need to Know About Leeks

Leeks are far more popular in France than here in the States. They are part of the onion family and, in fact, look like a giant version of scallions or green onions. However, leeks have a more delicate and milder flavor than other onions and add a subtle touch to recipes without overpowering the other flavors that are present. They are an important ingredient in pot-au-feu and I often use them in stews and braised dishes (look for both my pot-au-feu and my braised guinea fowl recipes in upcoming columns). Today’s recipes concentrate on leeks as the main event!

How to Select Leeks

Leeks should be firm and straight with dark green leaves and white necks. Good quality leeks will not be yellowed or wilted, nor have bulbs that have cracks or bruises. Since overly large leeks are generally more fibrous in texture, it is best to purchase those that have a diameter of one and one-half inches or less. Try to purchase leeks that are of similar size so as to ensure more consistent cooking.

How to Store Leeks

Fresh leeks should be stored unwashed and untrimmed in the refrigerator, where they will keep fresh for a week or two. Wrapping them loosely in a plastic bag will help them to retain moisture. Cooked leeks are highly perishable, and even when kept in the refrigerator, will only stay fresh for about two days. Leeks may be frozen after being blanched for two to three minutes, although they will lose some of their desirable taste and texture qualities. Leeks will keep in the freezer for about three months.

How to Clean Leeks

Leeks have to be washed very carefully because sandy grit is often found between the many layers inside.

In these recipes you are going to cut the leaks into rings or small strips so cleaning is easy. First cut off the really dark green top leaves and discard. They are very tough and cannot be used. Cut off root and cut leeks in half lengthwise. Fan out the leeks and rinse well under running water, leaving them intact.  Then paper towel dry and place on cutting board. Cut into rings or half circles and then put them in a bowl of cool water, rinse again and use a salad spinner to dry. 

Leek Season
Although leeks are available throughout the year they are best when in season from the fall through the early part of spring. So now is a good time to start cooking with them!. The first recipe I owe to my French niece Sophie who made this for us on a visit to our home years ago. It has become a staple of out fall and winter recipes. .

Leek & Bacon Pie

Ingredients:
¾ lb of the whites of washed fresh leeks

5 tablespoons of butter

¼ cup flour

2 cups + 1 teaspoon of boiled milk (hot or cooled)

¼ lb of diced bacon (or petites “lardons” cut from a slab of fat trimmed bacon)

1 Pillsbury pie crust (or home made if you prefer)

Pepper, salt and nutmeg

Directions

Roll out the dough and fit into a pie pan. (I like the metal ones in which the sides come off and leave the base for serving). With a fork poke holes in at least 5-6 places. Freeze until we are ready to use.

Preheat oven to 350F.

Cut the cleaned leek whites in circles or half circles. Blanch the bacon in boiling water for one minute (This reduces the fat and the greasy taste). In a large pan melt half of the butter and add the blanched and diced bacon. When they start to color add the leeks. On a small flame let them soften for about 15 minutes, stirring from time to time, but do not allow to brown! Add the flour and stir. Allow to cook for 2-3 minutes. Gently add the milk a bit at a time, continue to stir from time to time and not allowing to brown. Add pepper, salt and a bit of nutmeg. Bring to a boil, and while stirring and take off the high heat to put on a very small flame, allowing to cook very slowly for another 20 minutes.

Take the pie crust out of the freezer and place pieces of the rest of the butter on the crust. Pour the cooked leeks and bacon mixture into the pie crust and quickly place in the oven for about 20 minutes or until golden brown. Place your protected hand on the bottom of the pan, slip the sides off and place the tart on a serving dish.  Serve immediately because it will fall in a few minutes and look much less impressive (but will still taste just as good!).

Leek & Potato Soup

4 servings

Ingredients
½ lb of washed leek whites cut in pieces

1lb of russet or Idaho potatoes peeled and quartered

1 zucchini, washed, peeled and cut into large pieces

salt, pepper

3 tablespoons of cream fraiche or heavy cream

1 tablespoon of butter
Optional: Shredded cheese (cheddar or Swiss)

Directions

Melt butter into soup casserole and add the leeks on low flame. Let them “sweat” until limp. Add the potatoes and zucchini and cover with water (water should be about one inch higher than the vegetables). Bring to a rolling boil and reduce flame to medium. Allow to cook for about 12 minutes or until the potatoes mash easily. Mash all cooked ingredients. Add seasoning and cream. (If too thick add milk). Serve with optional cheese.

Leek Omelet

(For each individual omelet)

Ingredients
2 small leek whites chopped

1 tbsp unsalted butter

2 eggs (cage-free, vegetable-fed, antibiotics-free).

salt and pepper

Directions

Melt half of the butter in an anti-adhesive low-edge pan on high heat. Once it starts bubbling add the leeks. Stir with a wooden spoon. Reduce the heat, cover with a lid and slowly cook until the leeks are transparent and soft. Season with salt and pepper. Beat eggs vigorously with a fork. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and add two tablespoons of water. The more the eggs are beaten, the lighter the omelet. Turn up the heat and add remainder of the butter. Once the pan is very hot, pour the eggs and tilt the pan to spread them evenly over the leeks. Then wait a minute or two. Fold the omelet in half. Tilt the pan to spread the remaining liquid eggs on the entire pan. Then fold this newly formed disk on the half-moon omelet. Remove from the heat while the omelet is still runny ("baveuse") inside yet solid outside. Or if you prefer well done, you can cook it through and through by flipping the omelet.

Rack of Veal - An Impressive Meal

When Laurent Manrique (Chef & Owner of NY’s “Millisime” and San Francisco’s, Café de La Press) turned 40 he honored me with a request to cook his birthday meal and invited 5 of his chef friends for dinner at our home.  I made Rack of Veal with shallots confits, morel sauce and the traditional French dish of Boulangère potatoes. An expensive but impressive meal – but wonderful and rarely served! While I made it for 8 people, I will give you the recipe for 4. You can adjust weights and timings if you are more ambitious.

About veal: As veal is lower in fat than beef or pork, care must be taken in preparation to ensure that it does not become tough. (the reason for breading or coating with flour for scaloppini). For this roast we sear the juices in by browning the meat on all sides on top of the stove before roasting. Look for Milk Fed Veal if you can get it. It is far more tender and tastier than grain fed. Of course, no hormones, no antibiotics and humanely raised if you can find it!. If you only have one oven make the confit first and when finished bake the potato dish. When that is done cover potatoes with aluminum foil to keep as warm as possible. Return them to the oven to reheat when the roast is resting and you are making the sauce.

Ingredients

1 Rack of Veal with 4 chops (prepared by the butcher)

12 peeled shallots left whole

4 shallots peeled and chopped

8 tablespoons of grape seed oil

thyme (I branch)

7 tablespoons of butter

1½ pounds of potatoes (russets) peeled and cut into ¹/₈” thick slices

1 onion (peeled and finely chopped)

1 leek (white only - finely chopped)

16oz of chicken stock

8oz of veal stock

flat Italian parsley (2 branches)

Fine salt

Fleur de sel

Ground or butcher’s pepper

(1 tablespoon of arrowroot if necessary)

Confit Shallots
Preheat oven to 350F.
Place 12 of the peeled shallots in an ovenproof dish with 6 spoons of grape seed oil and thyme. Add salt.(Roll the shallots in the oil so they are coated with it. Cover with aluminum foil. And bake in oven for 30 minutes. Allow to cool when finished.

Potatoes Boulangères

Preheat oven to 350F.
Melt 2 teaspoons of butter and sauté the onions in it covered on a low flame for 5 minutes. Remove and reserve onions. Add 1 tablespoon of butter and once melted add the leeks covered on a low flame for 15 minutes.(they should not brown). In a large pan, sauté 2 tablespoons of the chopped shallots in one tablespoon of grape seed oil mixed with a tablespoon of butter. When translucent, add the sliced potatoes for about 10 minutes until they begin to get a golden color. In an ovenproof pan, spread the leeks and onions over the bottom and spread out the potatoes on top. Add the chicken stock, salt and pepper and allow to bake at 375F for 40 minutes. When finished cover with aluminum foil and allow to rest at room temperature. You will reheat when the roast is done. (This dish gets its name from small villages where on Sundays housewives dropped their potatoes off at the local bakery to be cooked in their ovens while the family attended church and picked up along with their bread after services.)

Rack of Veal

Take meat out of the refrigerator an hour before roasting..

Preheat oven to 400F. Place the roasting pan on the stove top and melt the remaining butter and grape seed oil in it. Add the remaining chopped shallots. Brown each side of the meat with the shallots on the stove. When browned, add the shallots confits around the meat and place in the oven for 30 minutes at 400F.

When done (roast for about 20-25 minutes per pound) remove the meat and shallots and cover with tented aluminum foil on a carving board. (Reduce the oven to 300 and reheat the potatoes.) Place the roasting pan on the stove with a moderate flame. Add the veal stock scraping the bottom of the pan so the juices dissolve into the stock. Allow to boil (reduce) for 2 minutes. (if it does not thicken take a tablespoon of the juice and mix with one teaspoon of arrowroot and add to the pan. This will thicken the sauce).

Separate the chops and serve one to each person on preheated plates each with 3 confit shallots and some sauce. Serve the potatoes on the side. ENJOY!!!

Optional Morel Cream Sauce

1 ounce dried morel mushrooms

1 cup boiling water

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 large chopped shallot

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Cover the morels with the boiling water and let soften for 30 minutes. Rub the morels in the liquid to remove grit. Transfer them to a bowl; cut any large ones in half. Reserve the liquid. In a saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. Add the shallot and cook until translucent, about 1 minute. Stir in the morels and season with salt and pepper. Pour in the mushroom liquid, stopping before you reach the grit. Boil over high heat to reduce by half, about 6 minutes. Add the reduced pan juices from the roast and  the cream and thyme, then simmer over moderately high heat until reduced by a third, about 5 minutes.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestion

This dish deserves a vigorous but elegant red wine. While many expensive wines would be perfect, we were looking for one under $20. I chose Chateau Greysac 2007, a Bordeaux from the left bank. It is mostly Merlot with a bit of Petit Verdot blended in. Chateau Greysac has developed immensely in the last thirty years. Its wines are a faithful reflection of this great terroir - delicate, aromatic and ample, as well as elegant and complex. The color of this wine is a deep ruby-garnet. The bouquet is of fresh red berries, mingled with notes of cedar and spice. On the palate are lovely red fruits, with full rich flavors balanced by silky tannins. $16.99 at Arlington Wines and Spirits.

My Favorite Apple Desserts

Next to the beautiful colors of the autumn leaves, the best thing about fall in Dutchess County is the huge variety of delicious apples available. While we tend to eat them raw everyday, we also enjoy apple desserts. Here are some of my favorite recipes:

Apple Soufflé
(for 6 people)

5 eggs (separated)

2/3 cup of sugar

1 cup of milk

2 pounds of apples (each peeled and sliced into 12 half moon shaped sections)

3 tablespoons of flour

2 Tablespoons of Butter

Preheat oven to 350F. Melt butter in a skillet. Sauté the apple segments in the butter on a low flame until they are soft inside and a bit golden on the outside. Beat the egg yolks, sugar and flour together. Add the milk and mix. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and gently fold into the egg yolk mixture. Pour into the skillet over the apples and cook as you would an omelet, gently picking up the sides and allowing the egg mixture to fill in the spaces. Bake in the oven for about 20 minutes. Serve warm!

No Sugar-No Spice Apple Sauce
6 apples (preferably two each of three different varieties)
1 pear
Peel and cut up fruit and place in a saucepan with 1 cup of water. Cook on medium flame, making sure that there is always a bit of liquid in the pot. (add more if necessary). When the fruit is cooked, mash with a masher. Serve warm or cold, as a snack, side dish or dessert. (The pear adds extra sweetness to the apples making sugar unnecessary).

French Apple Tart
1 refrigerated pie dough (I use Pillsbury)

2 pounds apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced with a paring knife

2 pats of butter, sliced very thinly.

¼ cup sugar

½ cup apricot jam

2 tablespoon of cognac (or brandy or bourbon)

Preheat oven to 425°.

Place dough on a lightly floured surface; roll into a 12-inch circle. Fit into a fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Place butter on the dough and sprinkle sugar over it. Arrange apple slices spoke like on top of dough, working from outside edge of dough to the center. Sprinkle apple slices with remaining sugar mixture. Bake at 425° for 30 minutes. While in the oven, combine the jam and cognac in a saucepan and cook over medium heat for a few minutes. Strain. Five minute before the tart is ready, brush the apricot jam over the apples and crust to give it a golden glaze.,

Apple Bundt Cake

3 cups sifted unbleached flour

3 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2¹/₃ cups sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

½ teaspoon nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground ginger

2 pounds apples (peeled, cored and diced)

4 large eggs

1 cup vegetable oil

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

¹/₃ cup apple juice

½ chopped walnuts

½ cup raisins

2 tablespoons Confectioners sugar

½ cup fine bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 350F. Butter the bundt pan and dust with fine bread crumbs. Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. Ina small bowl mix ½ cup of sugar with the three spices. Beat the eggs and add oil, vanilla, juice, and the 2 remaining cups of sugar. On low speed add the sifted dry ingredients and mix only until smooth. Pour half of the batter into the buttered bundt pan. Sprinkle over it half of the walnuts, half of the raisins, half of the apples and half of the spiced sugar. Repeat with the remaining batter, nuts, fruits and spices. Cover the top of the pan with aluminum foil and fold down the sides to make it airtight. Bake 30 minutes. Remove the foil. Bake an hour uncovered and cover loosely with aluminum foil to bake for another 15-20 minutes. (Total bake time is one hour and 45-50 minutes). Let cool for 20 minutes. Cover with a wide flat plate and turn upside down. Tap with a spoon on the top and sides and remove the pan. Let cool completely and then sprinkle the confectioner’s sugar over it.

Gerard’s Suggestions

Instead of wine Gerard recommends serving a Calvados – an apple brandy from Normandy!

Fixing Mistakes!

I made a mistake in one of my columns that provoked a huge argument with my husband. It was the recipe for what I claimed to be the “Original Salad Niçoise ”. Gerard was appalled to see that I had suggested string beans and potatoes in this salad. He claimed that they did not belong in the traditional Niçoise . I have eaten Salad Niçoise at least 50 times in the South of France, Paris or French restaurants here in the States, and there were always these two ingredients. I had confirmed my recipe before going to print with many cookbooks and proudly showed him the one from Julia Child (the master, herself!), which of course had the two ingredients in question.  “She is not from Nice, I do not think”, he countered. So I went to the real expert and checked “Ma Cuisine Provençale” by “La Mere Bresson” who had a wonderful small restaurant in Nice and later in Cannes and was revered as the “Queen of Provençale Cooking”. Low and behold right there in my old yellowed book, I found the “original recipe”. No string beans! Not a single potato! Instead a green pepper and a stalk of celery were included. I had to admit he was right and that I was wrong (two separate admissions). I had to apologize, but I did not have to eat crow! “I stand corrected”, I said to him and now to you - “Mine is not the “Original Salad Niçoise recipe - but it is the much improved and most popular recipe for the famous Niçoise !”

The subject of mistakes got me to thinking about some mistakes I‘ve made in the kitchen and how I have learned to correct them. Below, I have listed a number of them. Many years ago, when I lived in Italy (Milan) and first started cooking I invited 14 Italian colleagues for an American Dinner at my house. (I was tired of them thinking that all we could make were hamburgers, hot dogs and bad pizza). I did a proper roast and veggies and redeemed our reputation. For dessert, I used a recipe of chocolate cake I found in the Joy of Cooking. Irma Rombauer’s recipe is excellent but not written for novices. She seemed to assume that the reader already knew how to bake a cake and just required the recipe for this particular one. This was not my case. This was my first cake! Elated with the lovely aroma wafting from my oven, I took it out when finished baking and immediately turned it upside down on the cake platter. Much to my horror, it literally poured out to become a mountain of fluffy chocolate crumbs. (So if you ever wondered why you are supposed to let the cake cool before taking it out of the mold - now you know why!). It was too late to make another dessert. I tasted a crumb and found it perfectly delicious.  I then placed the crumbs in my most beautiful crystal bowl and whipped up some cream which I served in another lovely bowl. When dessert time came I served it up announcing that this was a traditional American dish called “A BOWL OF CAKE”. To this day, I think there are 14 Italians who believe that we eat this crazy dessert! First Fix-it Hint: if it is not what it was meant to be, but still tastes good- just dress it up and call it something else!

Eggs: Too Old? If you are not sure your eggs are fresh, place them gently into a bowl of water. Rotten eggs will float, and the fresh ones will stay fully submerged. The fresher they are, the more quickly they will sink. Hard to peel hard boiled eggs?  Crack the eggs and place in a bowl of cool water for 5 minutes.  The water will seep into the cracks and help loosen the shell from the egg. Egg whites won’t whip? Add a bit of baking soda or salt. Separating eggs? If a bit of yolk gets into the white, take a piece of egg shell to scoop out the yolk (works better than using a spoon or your fingers).

Vegetables Overcooked? If veggies have been cooked to a mush, purée them with your favorite herbs and a bit of butter and serve as a gourmet side dish “Carrot Puree”, “Broccoli Puree”, “Cauliflower Puree”, etc. Too salty? Pour the water out, rinse them off, and return them to the stove in new boiling water for at least a minute or until they are done.

Sauces: Too thin?  One tablespoon of cornstarch mixed with two tablespoons of the liquid and then whisked back in the pot will thicken the sauce. . Too thick, too reduced or starting to curdle?  Beat in two tablespoons of boiling water. Broken hollandaise?  Take 1 egg yolk and whisk it over a water bath until it is thick and pale, the slowly add the broken hollandaise to the yolk, whisking vigorously as you go.  This will bring your sauce back together. Broken cream sauce? Take half cup of heavy cream and reduce it down to 1/3 of its original volume.  Slowly drizzle in the curdled sauce while whisking vigorously.  This should bring the sauce right back to its creamy, silky consistency. 

Stale Bread:  Sprinkle day old bread with water, wrap in foil and bake it in a 300 degree oven until warm.

Herbs : Don’t have the fresh herbs required and want to substitute the dried version? Use one third of the amount of because dry herbs are concentrated and have about three times the flavor as fresh herbs. Underdone Cake: If it's too late to slide it back into the oven, scoop out the gooey middle and before serving fill the hole with fruit, ice cream or whipped cream.
Pie Crusts
Pie dough torn? If your pastry tears, roll a patch of dough to the same thickness and flatten the edges. Brush some lightly beaten egg white on the contact points and lightly press it onto the main shell. The whites will act as an adhesive so filling won't seep out. Pie dough burning before pie is ready? Cover edge with aluminum foil.

Gerard’s Suggestion for Bad Wine

If the wine is bad do not serve it! Do not use it for cooking (it could ruin your dish). Don’t even use it for vinegar. Just throw it out and get a better bottle!

Fresh Ahi Tuna

Pan Seared Ahi Tuna

I love serving seared raw ahi tuna as an appetizer. Known for its buttery texture, mild flavor and rich color, ahi (or yellowfin) tuna is seared to surround its raw center with a tasty caramelized crust and is served with some interesting side to dish to contrast its mild flavor. At lunch today with my scrabble / bridge / mah jong group, I served it along with the three side dishes mentioned below and asked them which one I should include in this week’s column.  They all said all of them – so here they are! (My favorite is the mango-avocado salsa!)

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Buying Ahi Tuna

To make seared ahi, you need to start with very fresh, sushi-grade ahi, as you will only be lightly searing the outside, leaving the inside raw. Not even rare, but raw. The freshness and the quality of the fish make a huge difference with this dish, so don't even attempt it with a lower grade of fish. Purchase fresh, sushi-or sashimi grade ahi. Look for firm, ruby red flesh with a clean smell of the sea. There should not be a "fishy" odor.  One tuna steak is enough for rwo people. We were seven and I served three steaks- nothing was left over!

Searing Ahi Tuna

Sprinkle salt and fresh ground pepper onto both sides of the tuna steak (optional: soak for about 10 minutes in a marinade such as a mixture of orange juice, teriyaki sauce, and sesame seeds.). Heat a non-stick heavy-bottomed skillet (frying pan). Use high heat if searing a steak 1/2-inch thick or less and medium-high for thicker pieces. Add 1½ teaspoons of olive oil (or sesame oil for more flavor) to the pan. (Using too much will lead to a greasy tuna steak).  Place the fish in the pan once the oil begins to smoke. Turn the fish after about 1 – 2 minutes and sear for another minute on the other side. It will be cooked only on the outside but remain beautifully raw on the inside. Remove from heat.

Serving Ahi Tuna

Slice and serve with any or all of the following accompaniments.

Israeli or Pearl Couscous

Cook as per package instructions. Allow to cool and then mix in minced garlic, cranberries and chopped basil.

Shaved Fennel Salad Recipe (serves 5-6)

Slice two fennel bulbs paper thin (use a mandolin if you have one)  and combine in a bowl with 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice, ¼ Tspn of chopped fresh thyme leaves, 1 Tbsp chopped flat-leafed parsley and 2 Tbsp shaved Parmesan cheese.

Mango-Avocado Salsa

Dice into small cubes:

·         2 ripe avocados (skinned and pitted)

·         6 Komatsu or 12 Cherry or grape tomatoes.

·         1½ large ripe mangos

Toss gently in a bowl with

·         1/4 cup diced red or Vidalia onion

·         3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

·         salt and freshly ground black pepper

GERARD’S WINE SUGGESTIONS

The challenge in selecting a wine for this recipe is that the wine needs to go well with the delicate flesh of the tuna and yet resist to the festival of flavors of the salsa  and other side dishes. So I would recommend a Riesling or a white Bordeaux. Trimbach Riesling 2008 – There’s a pleasant salty tanginess to this wine, underscoring flavors of Gala apple, grapefruit and stone, with a hint of petrol. Clean and well-defined by the firm acidity, yet well-meshed and elegant overall, with a mouthwatering finish. 90 points Wine Spectator - $15.99 at Arlington Wine & Liquor. Chateau Tanesse Bordeaux Blanc Sec 2009 – When you get a “Great” winemaker like Denis De Bourdieu to make the wine, the bells and whistles immediately sound ! This deftly crafted white is a blend of 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Semillon. Hints of melon and honey in the nose, it’s crisp, lively, and surprising depth and length of flavor, along with good acidity make this enjoyable from first to last swallow. $13.99 at Arlington Wine & Liquor.

All You Need to Know About Fresh Corn

When I first moved to Europe in the 70s, it was impossible to buy fresh corn. For my annual traditional Thanksgiving, I would serve corn on the cob that came in cans, much to the chagrin of my European guests. They were unimpressed with the taste and appalled by the idea of eating it with their hands! The French would say, “Ma Cherie” – we give the Maize or how you say “Corin” to the Pigs - never to the humans!” They tolerated my story of the pilgrims learning about corn from the Indians, but I am afraid it only reinforced their ideas about American Indians as portrayed in the Hollywood Westerns they had seen.  In the 80s, Green Giant starting planting fields of fresh corn in France and we were able to get the real thing. I was thrilled on Thanksgiving when I could finally regale my guests with good tasting corn on the cob. And all over France corn started showing up on French tables. But – warm and never on the cob! It became a very popular ingredient in cold salads (which, alas, I had never seen before!). Of course now, corn salads and salsas are everywhere.  Below you will find what I learned about corn through the years and a couple of my favorite recipes for fresh corn – both hot and cold!

How to buy corn on the cob..

First, never buy pre-husked corn. The husk which should be bright green, moist, and fit snugly around the ear, helps keep the kernels moist. The silks should appear pale and moist (but not soggy). Peel back the husk just a bit and look for tightly packed kernels with a few undeveloped kernels at the top of the cob. This is a sign of very young corn which is when it tastes the sweetest. There are two main varieties of corn sold: “sweet corn” and “high-sugar hybrids”. Sweet corn contains about 16 percent sugar; high-sugar hybrids (developed in the 1960s to improve shelf life) contain much more - about 40 percent. These over sweet hybrids tend to be sold in supermarkets. Corn connoisseurs prefer the more complex taste and silky texture of traditional local sweet corn which you find at farm stands.  If you pierce a kernel with your fingertip; sweet corn produces a milky liquid and the hybrids a thin, watery liquid.  Sweet corn tastes best picked in the cool morning hours and rushed to the pot. The minute it’s harvested, enzymes inside the kernels cause the corn’s sweet sugars to start converting into less-sweet compounds. In just three days, corn can lose nearly half its sweetness!  
Storing Corn
To minimize sugar loss, you need to keep corn at cold temperatures. Like other produce, corn contains mostly water and eventually dries when left in the open air. To keep it juicy, leave the husks on and wrap a wet paper towel around the base of the ears; or stand the ears upright in an inch or two of water in the refrigerator and cover with plastic bags.

Cooking corn

Either grill corn in its husks for about 15 minutes or place husked corn in generous amount of rolling boiling water (unsalted because salt toughens the outer skin of the kernels and keeps them from softening during cooking.)

For just 2-3 minutes! If your corn shows signs of age (dry husks, mushy brown silks, shrunken kernels), boost its sweetness by adding some sugar to the boiling water.

Mixed Corn Salad

1 lb fresh ripe tomatoes, diced
2 medium cucumbers diced

1- 2 cups of corn kernels, cooked

½ Vidalia onion, chopped

1 avocado diced

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons of first cold press olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

freshly ground pepper and good sea salt

In the salad bowl, combine the garlic, salt, pepper and balsamic vinegar and whisk in the olive oil, one third at a time. Add the onions, corn kernels, tomatoes, cukes and avocado. Season.

Summer Corn Soup

6 SERVINGS

Soup
3 cups whole milk

3 ears of fresh corn, kernels cut from cobs, cobs broken in half and reserved

2 tablespoons butter

1 large Vidalia onion, chopped

1 large carrot, peeled, thinly sliced

1 celery stalk, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, pressed

2 cups water

2 large fresh sprigs of thyme

2 fresh sprigs of rosemary

1 bay leaf

For the Garnish:
2 thick bacon slices, diced

additional kernels cut from about ½ ear of corn

1 scallion, thinly sliced

Crème fraîche (Or heavy cream)

Bring milk and corncob halves (not kernels) to boil. Remove from heat, cover, and let steep while sautéing vegetables. Melt butter in large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion; sprinkle with salt and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes (do not let onion brown). Add corn kernels, carrot, celery, and garlic; cook until vegetables are soft, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Add 2 cups water, herbs bay leaf, and milk with corncobs. Increase heat and bring to boil. Cover partially, reduce heat to low, and simmer 20 minutes to blend flavors. Discard corncobs, herb sprigs, and bay leaf. Cool soup slightly. Working in batches, puree soup in blender until very smooth. Strain into large bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Season soup to taste with salt and pepper (this can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.)

Garnish: Cook chopped bacon in small skillet over medium heat until crisp. Drain on paper towels and transfer to a small bowl. Mix in corn and scallions. Warm soup over medium heat and pour into bowls. Mix in a tablespoon of crème and sprinkle garnish. and serve.

Tomatoes in Season! Tomatoes in Salads!

Now that tomato season is in full bloom we will be eating them everyday in one way or another. Last week we gave you some recipes for cooking fresh tomatoes to accompany grilled meats and fish, today here they are in all their glory - in salads.

Tomates Croque-au-Fleur de Sel

In France, when they have perfect tomatoes they sometimes enjoy them just cut open and sprinkled with sea salt.  Not just any salt, but one of the gourmet sea salts – if possible Fleur de sel ("Flower of salt" ) which is hand-harvested sea salt collected by workers who scrape only the top layer of salt.  Because of its excessive moisture, fleurs de sel does not dissolve when sprinkled on a moist food: instead it retains its crystal structure, giving a slight crunch to the food as well as a slight shimmer. The crystals which are irregularly sized and shaped, dissolve at different rates in the mouth, giving several phases of salting. Fleur de sel is not to be wasted in cooking as it dissolves too fast. It is best used as a finishing touch by sprinkling it over food just before serving.

Tomato, Tuna & Hard Boiled Eggs
(For 4 people):
2 pounds of tomatoes

¼ cup of Vidalia onions (chopped).

1 large can of tuna in olive oil

4 hard boiled eggs, cut in half.

1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon of red wine vinegar

1½ tablespoons of peanut oil
Sea Salt & Ground Pepper

Make the dressing by mixing the mustard and vinegar in the bottom of a large bowl in which you will serve the salad. Add any olive oil that you can drain off from the can by pressing and holding back the tuna with a fork while pouring the olive oil into the mixture. Whisk. Add the peanut oil and whisk again. Add the onions .Quarter the tomatoes and add the eggs and tuna. Mix adding salt and pepper. If you prefer to make an artistic presentation on a platter, slice the tomatoes and place them side by side overlapping them all around the serving platter leaving room between the tomatoes and the edges of the platter for the row of halved eggs. Add the tuna (Fill the hole in the middle of the platter).  Sprinkle the onions. Pour the sauce over all of the tomatoes. Add sea sat (fleru de sel if you have) and pepper.

Tomato & Corn Salad

Take any amounts of the following and make appropriate amounts for the number of people you are serving.
Tomatoes

Cucumbers

Chopped Vidalia Onions

Chopped yellow and/or orange peppers

Cooked or canned corn

Avocados

Chopped fresh basil.

Dressing:1 part red wine or balsamic red wine vinegar (I like half and half) to three parts olive oil (a good first cold press).

Directions: Pour the vinegar into the bottom of the bowl I which you will serve the salad. Add salt (not fleur de sel) and pepper. Mince 1 large clove of garlic per tablespoon of vinegar into the vinegar. Add ¹/₃ of the olive oil. Whisk. Add another ¹/₃ of the oil and whisk again. Add remainder of the oil and whisk one more time.  Add the chopped onions. Cut up and add the fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers corn and avocados. Mix with two large spoons. S[rinjled with Fleur de Sel, ground pepper and fresh basil Serve.

Salad Nicoise
France’s favorite main course salad served all summer daily in just about every restaurant and café on the French Riviera. There are many variations but this is the original.
1 large head Boston-lettuce leaves, washed and dried 
1 pound cooked green beans
1½ tablespoons chopped shallots 
 4 ripe red tomatoes, cut into wedges (or 10 to 12 cherry tomatoes, halved) 
 4 "boiling" potatoes, peeled, boiled and sliced
Two 3-ounce cans chunk tuna packed in olive oil
6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved 
1 freshly opened can of flat anchovy fillets 
1/3 cup small black Niçoise-type olives 
2 to 3 tablespoons capers 
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon of red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons of olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper 

Directions: Make your vinaigrette by starting with the mustard and adding the vinegar, salt and pepper and then whisking the olive oil in one tablespoon at a time. Arrange the lettuce leaves in a large shallow bowl. Shortly before serving, toss the green beans with the shallots, spoonfuls of vinaigrette, and salt and pepper. Baste the tomatoes with a spoonful of vinaigrette. Place the potatoes in the center of the platter and arrange a mound of beans at either end, with tomatoes and tuna. Ring the platter with halves of hard-boiled eggs, yellow side up, and curl an anchovy on top of each. Spoon more vinaigrette over all; scatter on olives, capers, and parsley, and serve.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestion

With fresh tomatoes, salads and warm weather these is nothing better than a good rose. I would still serve the Jean Luc Colombo Cape Bleue 2010 that I recommended last week! A soft delicate pink with hints of peach, rose petal and pepper on the nose. Subtle, round and full of finesse, it is surprisingly complex, with intriguing notes of raspberries, fresh cherry, black olive and fennel. Available at Cascade in Amenia bottle ($13.49) or at a bargain in a magnum ($19.99)