Cooking Tomatoes

Some years ago, Gerard accompanied many of our French Chef friends on a truffle hunt in the south of France. One of the highlights of their trip was having lunch at the home of an American cookbook writer living in Provence. He raved about the house, the kitchen, the meal and the woman and proudly handed me a copy of one of her cookbooks autographed with an invitation to her home. When I saw who it was, I smiled, for I had been collecting and cooking recipes from her (Patricia Wells) for years. In one of her books she gives a recipe for an easy, fairly speedy and always wonderful (in tomato season) ratatouille which I have listed below.  If you make it, make a lot of it! People always ask for seconds. It is good hot or cold, and is even better the next day! I am also including a "tomato concassé” (pronounced "kon-kah-SAY") a recipe given to me by Christian Delouvrier (La Mangeoire), one of my mentors. Here he teaches me that cooking fresh tomatoes together with canned tomatoes takes the tomato experience to another level. In both of these southern French recipes, fresh thyme is featured, instead of the familiar basil. Try it! Either recipe beautifully accompanies grilled meat or grilled fish. This weekend I will be serving one of them with grilled lamb chops! 

Speedy Ratatouille

(For 6-8 people):

¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil
10 small very fresh zucchini (washed and cut into very thin slices – do not peel!)
2 lbs of fresh tomatoes (plum are best) cored, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons best quality red wine vinegar
3 plump fresh cloves of garlic (peeled and minced)
Sea Salt to taste

Directions: In a very large skillet over moderately high heat, heat the olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add the zucchini and 1 teaspoon of thyme leaves. Sauté, shaking the pan from time to time until the zucchini is just beginning to brown. (About 5 minutes). Add the salt and garlic, stir and cook for a minute or two. (The salt will cause the zucchini to give off liquid which will prevent the garlic from burning). Add tomatoes, tomato paste and vinegar and still over moderate heat continue to sauté, shaking the pan from time to time until all of the ingredients blend well and most of the liquid is absorbed (about 10 minutes). Add remaining thyme and serve warm or at room temperature!

Tomates Concassé

(For 6-8 people):

2 lbs of chopped fresh tomatoes
3 chopped shallots
¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil
a handful of fresh thyme
2 lbs of canned plum tomatoes
salt, pepper,
2 teaspoons of sugar
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 teaspoon lemon zest 

Directions: In 2 tablespoons of olive oil sauté chopped shallots until lucid. Add canned plum tomatoes and equal amount of fresh tomatoes. Add the rest of the olive oil. Season with salt, pepper, sugar and thyme. Cover and bake at 350F for 3 hours. Drain reserving the juice. On the stove reduce the liquid and put tomatoes back in.  Add zests of orange and lemon. Serve with grilled fish or meat.  

Gerard’s Wine Suggestion

With these summer dishes from the south of France, a rose from the same region is the obvious choice. Rona and I recently had the opportunity to entertain Jean-Luc Colombo, one of the best wine producers in Rhone and Provence. Those of you who came to our BBQ in June met him and tasted his excellent rose appropriately named Jean Luc Colombo Cape Bleue 2010. Soft, delicate pink. Subtle hints of peach, rose petal and pepper on the nose. Subtle round and full of finesse. Surprisingly complex, with intriguing notes of raspberries, fresh cherry, black olive and fennel. Available at Cascade in Amenia bottle ($13.49) or at a bargain in a magnum ($19.99)

Banana Flambée on the BBQ and served with Rum Raisin Ice Cream

(For 8 people):
8 Bananas (old enough to have started turning brown )

4 cups of dark rum.
1 Quart of Vanilla Ice Cream

2 cups of dark raisins (2 days in advance to make the rum raisin ice cream)

This is a recipe that took three chefs to cook up! Jean Louis Dumonet, pictured above,  (The Union Club) has been grilling bananas at our barbecues for over a decade. The secret - buy the bananas a week in advance.

Directions: At a barbecue, after the main course has been consumed and while the coals are still very hot, place the bananas on the hot grill and let them cook for 2-3 minutes on each side. Meanwhile in a pot placed on the grill, bring the rum to a boil – keep warm on the side waiting until the bananas are ready.  When the bananas are cooked the skin will start to open and foam will begin to form - usually at the ends. Slit open the banana skins and cut into the fruit inside. Light the hot liquid in the pot with a long match or lighter and ladle some of the burning rum into each banana. (Be careful, you may not see the flames until they are on the bananas!) When the flames die down the bananas are done!  We traditionally served this with vanilla ice cream, until Christian Delouvrier (La Mangeoire) suggested it would be better with rum raisin ice cream, which Michel Jean (Stissing House) volunteered to make. He explains that he took 1 cup of dark raisins and macerated them in ²/₃ cups of dark rum for 2 days. He then took a quart of vanilla ice cream and let it get soft by keeping it at room temperature. He mixed in the macerated raisin and rum so that it was evenly distributed and refroze until we were ready to serve it.  


Other Fruit Desserts: 

Roasted Strawberries
When Christian Delouvrier (at the time - the 4 star Chef at Lespinasse) first came to one of our barbecues many years ago, he complimented two things I had prepared: the roasted red peppers I served as one of the appetizers and the roasted strawberries I served for dessert. I told him my French mother-in-law taught me how to make the peppers (which made him smile knowingly) and that I got the roasted strawberry recipe from his friendly rival, Daniel Boulud. (which made his eyes grow wide and prompted him to give me one of his own recipes!).  I very often make roasted strawberries because it is so easy and so good. I just wash and cut up the strawberries and place them in an ovenproof casserole. I sprinkle some sugar over them and liberally add some pats of butter. As I serve the main course I place the casserole in the oven at 350F. When it is time to serve dessert, I take stem glasses and place some strawberry ice cream (sometimes I add strawberry sorbet and/or vanilla ice cream) and then ladle the hot strawberries with their sauce on top.  Serve with some simple butter cookies.

“La Soupe de Fruits Rouge” (Red Fruit Soup)

(For 4 people)

½ lb of Strawberries
¼ lb of Raspberries

¼ lb of Cherries (pitted)

4 leaves of fresh mint

1 glass of Rivesaltes Wine

Juice of ¼  lemon

1 Tablespoon of Sugar
Directions: Rinse the fruit in cold water. Take half of the strawberries and mix them in a blender with the lemon juice, sugar and wine. Cut the fruit into pieces and pour the liquid mixture over them. Chop the mint and add to the fruit salad. Refrigerate and serve cold with some plain cookies.

Fresh Mint Fruit Salad

I have been looking for a non-alcohol fruit salad and found the following recipe. I tried it but found it too sweet so I adjusted the proportions and we all loved the result.
Fruit
You need any combination of good seasonal fruit. I used the following:

Watermelon, Pineapple, Honey Dew, Pitted Fresh Cherries, Green Grapes, and Red Grapes.
(all cut into small pieces about the same size)

Dressing
2 tablespoons of honey (I used Golden Blossom)

3 tablespoons of lime juice

1 tablespoon of light brown sugar

3 tablespoon of fresh mint, washed and chopped finely.

Directions: Whisk the honey, lime and brown sugar together to make the dressing. Pour over the fruit. Add the mint and mix well. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to one day. Serve with plain cookies. 

The “Soy Sauce Secret” for Succulent Crispy Roasted Chicken

One of our French Chef friends, Christian Delouvrier gave me his secret recipe, and I am about to share it with you. This produces moist delicious chicken on the inside, with dark crispy skin on the outside. It came about (as Christian explained to me) on one of his visits to Chinatown where he was astounded by the crispy skin the Chinese were able to obtain with their Peking ducks. He soon realized that the secret was in basting the duck with soy sauce during its cooking. He then tried it on chicken and perfected the recipe below.  I make this about once a week and we continue to love it. I have also tried it on duck and it worked there too- but we’ll save that for another column!

1 3lb chicken
You really need to start with an organic free range chicken raised with no antibiotics. My favorite is the “Cou Nu” from DeBragga.com which is a French breed raised according the Red Label protocols – some of which I am told are raised right here in Columbia County! .I also like D’Artagnan and Murray’s.  Bell & Evans are also good. ..as well as some of the locally organically grown chicken. The timings here are for a 3lb chicken. You will have to adjust accordingly for a bigger chicken. 

½ lb Butter
It must be left out to soften at room temperature. I love Plugra, which is an American butter made according to French methods. It is sold at Adams. But any decent butter will do for this.

The Basting Sauce

1 Cup of Soy Sauce

2 Tablespoons of Butter

½ Cup of Water

Place the three ingredients in a sauce pan and bring to a boil. Mix and take off the heat. Set aside.

Directions:

This will require one hour of roasting in the oven and 20 minutes of resting before carving and serving. Preheat oven to 475F.

Salt the interior of the chicken and salt and pepper the outside. Smear both the inside and outside of the chicken with butter. All over! Put on more butter than you think you should, and then some more!

Place the chicken on its side and roast for 10 minutes. Turn the chicken onto its other side and roast another 10 minutes. During the roasting, prepare the Basting Sauce mixture.

Turn the oven down to 425F. Turn the chicken breast side up and brush it all over with the basting sauce.

Roast another 10 minutes and re-baste. Continue roasting another 10 minutes.  Turn down heat to 350F and re-baste. After another 10 minutes baste again. When it has roasted 20 minutes at 475F, 20 minutes at 425F and 20 minutes at 350F, it is done. Take out of the oven, place a piece of aluminum foil loosely tented over the chicken and wait 20 minutes before carving and serving.

Serving Suggestions

Any combination of potatoes, vegetables and/or mixed salad goes well with roasted chicken, but I like a very simple recipe that one of my French girlfriends gave me decades ago that always seems to impress people. Wash medium size new potatoes (the light skin kind) and cut in half lengthwise. Place in the oven skin side down. When they are cooked, the non skin side will form a crispy layer that will rise slightly as it browns. This signals that the potato is cooked. . Timing is an issue because it changes with the size of the potato, but about 40 minutes at 350F is usually about right. Serve immediately because it will fall like a soufflé – in fact they are often call “soufflé potatoes”.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestion

The soy sauce brings an exotique note that suggests selecting a slightly spicy wine. I hesitated between a Pinot Noir, a Coteaux du Languedoc (Cabernet Sauvignon), an Anjou (Cabernet Franc) or a Beaujolais appellation Brouilly I decided on the latter when I found Château de La Chaize 2008 at Arlington Wines for only $14.99 This deep ruby wine is 100% Gamay. It unveils warm aromas of cherry jam ,spices and dark berries. Rich, round and supple it leaves a pleasant impression of softness, yet generous and gourmand. It will complement this roast chicken well. 

A Magical Evening with Lobster Paella!

Last week, Gerard and I were invited to dine with Domingo Zapata, a contemporary artist who was born in Spain, lives in Soho and is summering in Millbrook. Domingo prepared his Lobster Paella, which he claims is the “best in the world” and adds, “If you try it and don’t think it is the best – do not tell me about it!”  Well I tried it and have to admit that while I cannot vouch for the rest of the world, it was certainly the best I have ever eaten! Moreover, he let me come into the kitchen and watch him prepare it, so I can now relate to you – the secrets of Domingo’s paella!

First, he started with his paella pan – a large round pan with handles which is first used on top of the stove, then in the oven and finally brought to the table to serve the magnificent paella.  He placed the pan on a medium high heat to make his “sofrito” by first adding the olive oil, then chopped onion and green pepper and fried all of this for about 5 minutes. He then added the chopped tomato and continued to fry gently. Next were 3 cups of rice, which he stirred in well so that all of the rice was coated with the “Sofrito”.  On the side, he prepared a mixture of garlic, saffron, chopped parsley and a pinch of salt. He added the water and the mixture to the pan and brought the liquid to a boil. He seasoned with coarse salt and two beef bouillon cubes. Covering the pan with a lid, he turned down the heat and allowed it to simmer for 10 minutes. He then added the lobster pieces to the dish, covered and simmered for another 10 minutes. After checking that there was enough liquid (if it looks like it is getting dry, more water should be added at this point.), he placed the pan uncovered in the oven (preheated to 350F), and allowed the rice to absorb all of the liquid and flavorings while the lobster cooked through for about 40 minutes.

During this time we drank a bottle of Rose on the terrace and snacked on some guacamole! It was one of those “magical starry nights” with the air clear and comfortable. Neither muggy; nor chilly. Coyotes howling in the distance and even the mosquitoes seemed to be somewhere else.

The lobster paella was a beautiful site, but it was the aromas that accompanied that pan to the table that told me I was about to taste “the best paella in the world”!.... and I think I did!

INGREDIENTS:

2 lobsters in their shells cut into pieces

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 green or yellow pepper, finely chopped

½ red pepper, finely chopped

2 medium-sized tomatoes, skinned and finely chopped

3 cups of rice
a pinch of saffron strands 

a sprig of parsley, finely chopped

olive oil

6 cups of water or stock

2 beef bouillon cubes

GENERAL PAELLA TIPS
Meat & Seafood
Many different protein products can go into a paella. Chicken, rabbit, chorizo, lobster, shrimp, mussels, clams, etc are all excellent paella ingredients, and any mixture thereof is acceptable. (I am told even snails can be added- but I have never actually seen that!) Fresh shellfish is always better, but you can use frozen lobster tails and/or frozen shrimp in which case they must be completely thawed, still in their shells and I would use Seafood Stock instead of water to increase the flavor.
Stock

The liquid in which the paella cooks should be rich and flavorful. Domingo used water with beef bouillon cubes; others use fish, seafood or chicken stock.

Rice
Use a firm and absorbent rice. Spaniards always use short-grained rice, such as” “Bomba”, “Valenciano”, “Calasparra” or Goya’s medium grain riceiwhich absorb the richness of the broth while each grain remains  distinct.

Safron

Use real Spanish saffron. In harder times, Spaniards substituted "colorante" a yellow artificial coloring with a turmeric base – but it is not as good.. It will not have the deep aroma and flavor. I found a decent Spanish saffron at Marona’s!

GERARD’S WINE SUGGESTIONS
This is the occasion to discover a nice Spanish wine, Abando 2007, a striking white Rioja made from Viura grapes. Its beautiful light golden yellow and aromatic complexity highlights the nuances of tropical fruit, balsamic and mint, jointly with the aromas of vanilla and toasted oak. The palate is creamy, with superb acidity, structure and flavor, leaving a long and tasty souvenir. $19.99.  Or, a lovely pairing and a great buy from Jean Luc Colombo’s Cote Bleue Rose 2010 A light, slightly crisp rose, showing brisk cherry pit and watermelon rind notes and a dry, mineral finish. $19.99 a magnum ! Both at Cascade Wine & Spirits in Amenia.

Secrets to Soufflés

I always imagined soufflés to be very difficult and shied away from trying to make one. Last year, convinced this was a test of a real cook, I finally tried and triumphed! So, I thought I might share my soufflé secrets – the biggest of which is that it is not as hard as it looks!  I prefer making soufflés in individual ramekins instead of a larger dish. I find it easier to control and more impressive at the table. But if you want one big one, follow the recipes and add 8-12 minutes in baking time.  
Timing

You may prep your soufflés hours in advance and leave them covered in the fridge on the metal baking pan to be used for baking. This way they are quickly and easily transported from fridge to oven and from oven to table. When you’re ready to bake put it straight in the pre-heated oven.

Eggs

Eggs must be at room temperature and not “farm fresh” which will not hold air as well as those that are at least a week old.
Bowl

Use a very clean glass or metal bowl. (Traces of grease will stop the egg whites from rising).
Folding

Be certain your mixture is cooled to room temperature before folding into the egg whites.  Always fold one cup of your whites into your mixture first to loosen it up, before folding in the rest of the whites.
Filling

Many recipes suggest adding a collar to your soufflé. Instead, I fill my soufflé dishes to half an inch below the brim giving it space to fluff up.

Baking

Do not use convection option on your oven. Your soufflé will start out looking great, but then will deflate after a few minutes. Do not open the oven for the first 15 minutes of baking time and when you be quick about it and shut the door softly.

Ready

To test for doneness, insert a skewer or knife into the center of one and make sure it comes out clean, with no wet batter clinging on.

The Cheese Soufflé (serves 4)
You will need four 16 oz oven-safe ramekins and a mixer

Ingredients
½ cup butter

1½ cups shredded extra sharp cheddar cheese

½ cup flour

8 extra large egg yolks

10 extra large egg whites

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup fine grated parmesan cheese

2 cups milk         

1/2 teaspoon paprika    

dash cayenne

Preheat oven to 450 degrees and position rack in lower third of oven.  Generously butter soufflé dishes and dust with parmesan cheese on sides and bottom.  Melt butter in a medium saucepan. Add flour, salt, cayenne, paprika, stirring well. Gradually add milk, stirring constantly, cook until thick. Add the cheese and stir until melted and very smooth. Remove from heat. Beat the egg yolk with a whisk until light. Gradually pour into cheese mixture and stir until well mixed. Beat egg whites with an electric mixer until very stiff, but not dry. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.  Fold about 1 cup of egg whites into the cheese mixture. Using a wide rubber spatula, very slowly, in a gentle stream pour the mixture into the egg whites. Gently fold the two together-going deep to make sure of even distribution. Pour into ramekins.  Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 400 degrees and bake about 15-20 minutes longer. When it is risen and all golden brown it is ready. Serve immediately!

 

The Chocolate Soufflé  serves 4

You will need four 8-10oz ramekins, one double boiler, one mixer
Ingredients
7 ounces finely chopped semisweet chocolate 
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus for preparing the molds
1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons warm water
½ cup sugar, plus 2 tablespoons
8 large egg whites, room temperature
½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Confectioners' sugar for garnish


Directions
Brush four (8-10 ounce) ramekins with soft butter, then coat with sugar. Put the prepared ramekins in the freezer. Set an oven rack in lower third of the oven and preheat to 450F degrees. Fill bottom of double boiler with one inch of water and bring to a very slow simmer. Melt chocolate and butter in the top pan over, but not touching, the water. Stir occasionally until melted and smooth. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla extract. Set aside. Combine egg yolks and warm water in a large metal or glass bowl and beat until frothy.  Gradually add 2 tablespoons sugar, and continue beating until ribbons form, about 5 minutes. Very lightly fold the yolks into the chocolate mixture. Allow to cool to room temperature. Remove prepared ramekins from freezer. Put the egg whites in the bowl of a standing mixer and add the lemon juice. Beat on medium until frothy; then gradually add the remaining ½ cup of sugar and increase speed to high. Beat until the whites hold a stiff but not dry peak.
Working quickly, fold about one third of the egg whites into the chocolate to lighten; then fold in remaining whites until blended. Gently ladle the soufflé mixture into the ramekins, and place on a baking sheet. Immediately bake until the soufflés rise about 1½” above the ramekins about 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven, dust with confectioners' sugar and serve immediately with whipped or heavy cream.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestion

With the delicate light texture of a soufflé we must pair very light but flavorful wines. For the cheese soufflé I found a Cote du Rhone Belleruche 2009 from Michel Chapoutier. A lovely balance of grenache and syrah. Served cool, the cherry aromas with hints of licorice and pepper will compliment the cheese. Arlington wine & spirit - $ 9.99.   For the chocolate, nothing would be better than a Banyuls, but I could not find one locally, so I chose a port wine - Sandman Founders Reserve. It has an intense ruby color, and brilliant powerful flavors. $18.99 at Arlington Wine & Spirit.

Soupe au Pistou

This fresh vegetable soup from Provence features Pistou which is a lighter version of pesto, since it does not contain any nuts. Try to have all the vegetables diced and sliced about the same size, which makes for a nice presentation. Of course, you can vary the vegetables according to what’s available. I use canned beans because I find pre soaking and cooking dried beans not worth the effort and often leads to uneven cooking. (you may also replace the pistouwith store bought pesto and it could be just as good...

Ingredients
2 cups (300g) canned white beans (Cannellini or Navy)

2 bay leaves

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, peeled and diced

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

2 medium carrots peeled and diced

2 medium zucchini diced

½ pound green beans (tips removed and cut up)
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced or thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sea salt/ freshly ground pepper

1 cup frozen peas

1 cup dried pasta (orzo, vermicelli, or tiny shells)

For the Pistou:
1 large clove of garlic, peeled, generous pinch of salt

2 cups fresh basil leaves

1/4 cup olive oil

1 small tomato; peeled, seeded, and diced

2 oz Parmesan cheese, grated

Directions

In a Dutch oven or large stockpot, heat the olive oil.

Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent. Add the thyme, diced carrots, zucchini, green beans, drained beans garlic, and salt. Season with pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are completely cooked. Add the drained  beans then the peas and pasta, plus 2 quarts water. Bring the soup to a boil, and simmer a few minutes until the pasta is cooked. While the soup is cooking, make the pistou. In a food processor, place the garlic, salt, basil leaves and cheese. Mix. Add the tomato and remix.

To serve 

Ladle hot soup into bowls and add a generous spoonful of pistou to the center and swirl gently. Serve extra pistou on the side for those who wish to add. 

Gazpacho

There is nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day than a good gazpacho. Essentially, a liquid salad this piquant cold tomato soup is often just drunk from a glass, but I much prefer it served with the chopped vegetables on the side that are added to the soup as I was once served in Spain’s Andalusia.  

Serves 4.

Ingredients

1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs

2-3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 cucumbers (peeled, seeded and diced)

1 diced Vidalia (or other sweet) onion

2 cloves of garlic (crushed)

1 green or yellow pepper (cored, seeded and diced)

½ cup of olive oil (first cold press)

6 ripe tomatoes (coarsely chopped and worked through a sieve)

salt

black pepper

ice cubes (added to the soup just before serving)

3 slices of toasted bread, crusts removed (for croutons)

Directions

Soak the bread crumbs in 2 tablespoons of vinegar.

In a blender, liquefy the bread crumbs, one of the cucumbers, half of the peppers, half the onion and the garlic, together until smooth. Beat in the olive oil a few drops at a time. Stir in the pureed tomatoes and season with salt and pepper and add remaining vinegar. Chill thoroughly.

To serve: Before serving add ice cubes to the soup and prepare separate small dishes with the remaining diced cucumber, peppers, onion and croutons for guests to add to the soup as garnish. 

Salmon Rillettes

Inspired by the recipe in Eric Ripert’s cook book of recipes from Le Bernardin, here is a lovely and impressive spread to serve on toast and enjoy with a glass of white wine before dinner.
1 bottle of inexpensive dry white wine
2 tablespoon chopped shallots or sweet onions
1 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 lbs fresh salmon fillet, cut into 1 inch cubes
6 ounces of smoked salmon diced
2 tablespoons of thinly chopped fresh chives
1 cup lemon juice
pepper
1 cup home made mayonnaise: (1 large egg yolk, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, sea salt, pepper, 2/3 cup peanut oil, 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar)

Poach the Salmon:

Place wine, shallots, and 1 teaspoon salt in large saucepan and bring to boil. Add cubed fresh salmon and remove 40 seconds after boiling restarts. Strain in a sieve and run under cold water to stop cooking process. Drain well and refrigerate for at least one hour. Discard liquid.

Make the mayonnaise: 

Whisk together mustard, egg yolk, salt and pepper and while whisking drizzle in peanut oil. 

Mix everything and chill.

Place diced smoked salmon in salad bowl and stir in chives. Add poached salmon and use side of wooden spoon to shred salmon as you mix. Stir in lemon juice, mayonnaise and pepper. Salt to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.  Serve on toast or toasted baguette slices.

Salmon a L’Unilatéral with Creamy Leek Sauce

I discovered this sumptuous yet simple dish at a famous Danish Restaurant (Flora Danica) on the Champs Elysees of Paris. They grill the salmon on one side only and cook it until it is just about warm inside. ..served very rare –flavorful and moist. I love salmon this way. Of course if you are going to insist on having your salmon well done, dry and flaky, you can turn it over and cook the second side for a few minutes longer – but you will not enjoy it as much as I will! I guess you can also choose to find a happy medium. Prepare the sauce and when ready start grilling the salmon.

Salmon
4 pieces of salmon with skin still attached (as thick as possible) about 4 ounces each
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
Olive Oil
On the grill or in a non-stick pan
Brush some olive oil on the meat side of the salmon
Place salmon skin side down on the grill.
Salt with coarse salt
Let grill for about 6-12 minutes.
When skin is nice and crispy and the salmon just warm enough to enjoy, but still fairly dark in color – it is ready to serve.

Leek Sauce
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
½ lb leek whites, cleaned and finely chopped
½ cup dry white wine
1 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons peanut oil
salt and pepper
In a saucepan combine butter, shallots, and leeks. Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring. Add wine and cook until most of the wine has evaporated. Add the cream and salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Keep sauce warm.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestions

Salmon is a « fatty fish » and needs a dry white wine such as a Riesling, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. For the Salmon a l’Unilatéral, I recommend a Petit Chablis 2010 de chez Jean-Marc Brocard,  a lively wine with exotic fruit flavors. $15.99 at Arlington Wines, or a Viré-Clessé 2008 from Chanson Père et Fils, one of the best white wines of the Macon area combining suppleness and minerality. $16.99 chez Arlington Wines. 

 

 

Lobster, Watermelon & Tomato Salad

This past weekend we had a big party for my 65^th birthday. Four of our best friends (who happen to be French chefs) came to help us celebrate. There were nearly 100 of us at the BBQ where we watched them prepare the muscles in a creamy wine sauce and cook the red snapper, the whole beef tenderloins, and bananas flambe all right on the grill. Christian Delouvrier (La Mangeoire) brought his famous ratatouille, Jean Louis Dumonet (The Union Club) prepared a fabulous Choron Sauce (A Bernaise sauce made with tomato puree) for the beef and Michel Jean (Stissing House) made delicious rum raisin ice cream to serve with the grilled bananas.  I did actually prepare one dish - my French Potato Salad - the very same recipe I wrote up in this column a few weeks ago.  Jean Luc Colombo served up case upon case of his lovely rosé , white and red wines from the Rhone Valley. While it was all wonderfully delicious and fun for a foodie – what I really need to share with you is the incredible dish that was created the night before the party at my home…

With the chefs and their wives we were about a dozen people. I had, of course, prepared a meal, but one of the chefs (Laurent Manrique) brought 5 cold cooked lobster tails from his restaurant (“Millesime” on Madison & 29^th). He asked permission to scavenge my kitchen to see what he could find to put together with the lobster to make an additional appetizer for us.

 “Ah, tu as du pastèque - fantastique!” he said gleefully as he started to cut up my seedless watermelon. He cut it and the lobster into chunks of about the same size and placed them together in a bowl. When he spotted some nice tomatoes he chopped up three or four and added them to the bowl as well. He then emptied the bowl through a strainer reserving the liquid and placing the chunks of lobster, tomatoes and watermelon on a deep dish platter.

He looked me in the eye with a friendly challenge to ask if I had any fresh herbs, and I proudly brought him out onto the deck where I had very recently planted some I had bought at Adams. Joyfully he started picking sprigs of fresh basil, peppermint, and dill and them chopped them up.

“Have you any sherry wine vinegar.. (Thank goodness, I did!) and olive oil?” (I had just gotten a bottle of that great olive oil that Millbrook  Winery sells – thank you Bruce Kimball!!!). Laurent made a vinaigrette and then whisked in the juice that had been strained from the watermelon and tomatoes. He poured this fabulous dressing over the lobster mix, and sprinkled all of the fresh herbs on top. The aromas hit us all as he mixed and then served us. And voila, a beautiful summer salad was created.

I have rarely tasted such a wonderfully refreshing and great tasting dish.  I will make it often. And I understand more than one of the chefs will be adding it to their menus this summer! Why don’t you try it too?

Gerard served an Alsatian Gewurztraminer from Josmeyer which went exquisitely with this bouquet of flavors. And when the dish and the wine combine to each enhance the other, it seems that the planets and stars are perfectly aligned and it is really good to be alive!

Lobster, Tomato & Watermelon Salad
(for 12)

5 cooked lobster tails (cut in chunks)

5 tomatoes (cut in chunks)

¼ of a seedless round watermelon (cut in chunks)

1/3 cup of sherry wine vinegar

2/3 cup of good olive oil (first cold press)

1 bunch fresh basil (chopped)

3 tablespoons of fresh peppermint (chopped)

2 tablespoon fresh dill (chopped)

Mix the lobster, tomato and watermelon chunks in a bowl.

Make a vinaigrette by mixing the vinegar with half of the oil. Whisk. Add the rest of the oil and whisk again. Strain the juices from the lobster, watermelon and tomatoes and whisk into the vinaigrette.

Mix the herbs and sprinkle them over the salad. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and mix. Serve.