Secrets to Soufflés

I always imagined soufflés to be very difficult and shied away from trying to make one. Last year, convinced this was a test of a real cook, I finally tried and triumphed! So, I thought I might share my soufflé secrets – the biggest of which is that it is not as hard as it looks!  I prefer making soufflés in individual ramekins instead of a larger dish. I find it easier to control and more impressive at the table. But if you want one big one, follow the recipes and add 8-12 minutes in baking time.  
Timing

You may prep your soufflés hours in advance and leave them covered in the fridge on the metal baking pan to be used for baking. This way they are quickly and easily transported from fridge to oven and from oven to table. When you’re ready to bake put it straight in the pre-heated oven.

Eggs

Eggs must be at room temperature and not “farm fresh” which will not hold air as well as those that are at least a week old.
Bowl

Use a very clean glass or metal bowl. (Traces of grease will stop the egg whites from rising).
Folding

Be certain your mixture is cooled to room temperature before folding into the egg whites.  Always fold one cup of your whites into your mixture first to loosen it up, before folding in the rest of the whites.
Filling

Many recipes suggest adding a collar to your soufflé. Instead, I fill my soufflé dishes to half an inch below the brim giving it space to fluff up.

Baking

Do not use convection option on your oven. Your soufflé will start out looking great, but then will deflate after a few minutes. Do not open the oven for the first 15 minutes of baking time and when you be quick about it and shut the door softly.

Ready

To test for doneness, insert a skewer or knife into the center of one and make sure it comes out clean, with no wet batter clinging on.

The Cheese Soufflé (serves 4)
You will need four 16 oz oven-safe ramekins and a mixer

Ingredients
½ cup butter

1½ cups shredded extra sharp cheddar cheese

½ cup flour

8 extra large egg yolks

10 extra large egg whites

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup fine grated parmesan cheese

2 cups milk         

1/2 teaspoon paprika    

dash cayenne

Preheat oven to 450 degrees and position rack in lower third of oven.  Generously butter soufflé dishes and dust with parmesan cheese on sides and bottom.  Melt butter in a medium saucepan. Add flour, salt, cayenne, paprika, stirring well. Gradually add milk, stirring constantly, cook until thick. Add the cheese and stir until melted and very smooth. Remove from heat. Beat the egg yolk with a whisk until light. Gradually pour into cheese mixture and stir until well mixed. Beat egg whites with an electric mixer until very stiff, but not dry. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.  Fold about 1 cup of egg whites into the cheese mixture. Using a wide rubber spatula, very slowly, in a gentle stream pour the mixture into the egg whites. Gently fold the two together-going deep to make sure of even distribution. Pour into ramekins.  Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 400 degrees and bake about 15-20 minutes longer. When it is risen and all golden brown it is ready. Serve immediately!

 

The Chocolate Soufflé  serves 4

You will need four 8-10oz ramekins, one double boiler, one mixer
Ingredients
7 ounces finely chopped semisweet chocolate 
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus for preparing the molds
1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons warm water
½ cup sugar, plus 2 tablespoons
8 large egg whites, room temperature
½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Confectioners' sugar for garnish


Directions
Brush four (8-10 ounce) ramekins with soft butter, then coat with sugar. Put the prepared ramekins in the freezer. Set an oven rack in lower third of the oven and preheat to 450F degrees. Fill bottom of double boiler with one inch of water and bring to a very slow simmer. Melt chocolate and butter in the top pan over, but not touching, the water. Stir occasionally until melted and smooth. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla extract. Set aside. Combine egg yolks and warm water in a large metal or glass bowl and beat until frothy.  Gradually add 2 tablespoons sugar, and continue beating until ribbons form, about 5 minutes. Very lightly fold the yolks into the chocolate mixture. Allow to cool to room temperature. Remove prepared ramekins from freezer. Put the egg whites in the bowl of a standing mixer and add the lemon juice. Beat on medium until frothy; then gradually add the remaining ½ cup of sugar and increase speed to high. Beat until the whites hold a stiff but not dry peak.
Working quickly, fold about one third of the egg whites into the chocolate to lighten; then fold in remaining whites until blended. Gently ladle the soufflé mixture into the ramekins, and place on a baking sheet. Immediately bake until the soufflés rise about 1½” above the ramekins about 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven, dust with confectioners' sugar and serve immediately with whipped or heavy cream.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestion

With the delicate light texture of a soufflé we must pair very light but flavorful wines. For the cheese soufflé I found a Cote du Rhone Belleruche 2009 from Michel Chapoutier. A lovely balance of grenache and syrah. Served cool, the cherry aromas with hints of licorice and pepper will compliment the cheese. Arlington wine & spirit - $ 9.99.   For the chocolate, nothing would be better than a Banyuls, but I could not find one locally, so I chose a port wine - Sandman Founders Reserve. It has an intense ruby color, and brilliant powerful flavors. $18.99 at Arlington Wine & Spirit.

Soupe au Pistou

This fresh vegetable soup from Provence features Pistou which is a lighter version of pesto, since it does not contain any nuts. Try to have all the vegetables diced and sliced about the same size, which makes for a nice presentation. Of course, you can vary the vegetables according to what’s available. I use canned beans because I find pre soaking and cooking dried beans not worth the effort and often leads to uneven cooking. (you may also replace the pistouwith store bought pesto and it could be just as good...

Ingredients
2 cups (300g) canned white beans (Cannellini or Navy)

2 bay leaves

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, peeled and diced

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

2 medium carrots peeled and diced

2 medium zucchini diced

½ pound green beans (tips removed and cut up)
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced or thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sea salt/ freshly ground pepper

1 cup frozen peas

1 cup dried pasta (orzo, vermicelli, or tiny shells)

For the Pistou:
1 large clove of garlic, peeled, generous pinch of salt

2 cups fresh basil leaves

1/4 cup olive oil

1 small tomato; peeled, seeded, and diced

2 oz Parmesan cheese, grated

Directions

In a Dutch oven or large stockpot, heat the olive oil.

Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent. Add the thyme, diced carrots, zucchini, green beans, drained beans garlic, and salt. Season with pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are completely cooked. Add the drained  beans then the peas and pasta, plus 2 quarts water. Bring the soup to a boil, and simmer a few minutes until the pasta is cooked. While the soup is cooking, make the pistou. In a food processor, place the garlic, salt, basil leaves and cheese. Mix. Add the tomato and remix.

To serve 

Ladle hot soup into bowls and add a generous spoonful of pistou to the center and swirl gently. Serve extra pistou on the side for those who wish to add. 

Gazpacho

There is nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day than a good gazpacho. Essentially, a liquid salad this piquant cold tomato soup is often just drunk from a glass, but I much prefer it served with the chopped vegetables on the side that are added to the soup as I was once served in Spain’s Andalusia.  

Serves 4.

Ingredients

1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs

2-3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 cucumbers (peeled, seeded and diced)

1 diced Vidalia (or other sweet) onion

2 cloves of garlic (crushed)

1 green or yellow pepper (cored, seeded and diced)

½ cup of olive oil (first cold press)

6 ripe tomatoes (coarsely chopped and worked through a sieve)

salt

black pepper

ice cubes (added to the soup just before serving)

3 slices of toasted bread, crusts removed (for croutons)

Directions

Soak the bread crumbs in 2 tablespoons of vinegar.

In a blender, liquefy the bread crumbs, one of the cucumbers, half of the peppers, half the onion and the garlic, together until smooth. Beat in the olive oil a few drops at a time. Stir in the pureed tomatoes and season with salt and pepper and add remaining vinegar. Chill thoroughly.

To serve: Before serving add ice cubes to the soup and prepare separate small dishes with the remaining diced cucumber, peppers, onion and croutons for guests to add to the soup as garnish. 

Salmon Rillettes

Inspired by the recipe in Eric Ripert’s cook book of recipes from Le Bernardin, here is a lovely and impressive spread to serve on toast and enjoy with a glass of white wine before dinner.
1 bottle of inexpensive dry white wine
2 tablespoon chopped shallots or sweet onions
1 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 lbs fresh salmon fillet, cut into 1 inch cubes
6 ounces of smoked salmon diced
2 tablespoons of thinly chopped fresh chives
1 cup lemon juice
pepper
1 cup home made mayonnaise: (1 large egg yolk, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, sea salt, pepper, 2/3 cup peanut oil, 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar)

Poach the Salmon:

Place wine, shallots, and 1 teaspoon salt in large saucepan and bring to boil. Add cubed fresh salmon and remove 40 seconds after boiling restarts. Strain in a sieve and run under cold water to stop cooking process. Drain well and refrigerate for at least one hour. Discard liquid.

Make the mayonnaise: 

Whisk together mustard, egg yolk, salt and pepper and while whisking drizzle in peanut oil. 

Mix everything and chill.

Place diced smoked salmon in salad bowl and stir in chives. Add poached salmon and use side of wooden spoon to shred salmon as you mix. Stir in lemon juice, mayonnaise and pepper. Salt to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.  Serve on toast or toasted baguette slices.

Salmon a L’Unilatéral with Creamy Leek Sauce

I discovered this sumptuous yet simple dish at a famous Danish Restaurant (Flora Danica) on the Champs Elysees of Paris. They grill the salmon on one side only and cook it until it is just about warm inside. ..served very rare –flavorful and moist. I love salmon this way. Of course if you are going to insist on having your salmon well done, dry and flaky, you can turn it over and cook the second side for a few minutes longer – but you will not enjoy it as much as I will! I guess you can also choose to find a happy medium. Prepare the sauce and when ready start grilling the salmon.

Salmon
4 pieces of salmon with skin still attached (as thick as possible) about 4 ounces each
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
Olive Oil
On the grill or in a non-stick pan
Brush some olive oil on the meat side of the salmon
Place salmon skin side down on the grill.
Salt with coarse salt
Let grill for about 6-12 minutes.
When skin is nice and crispy and the salmon just warm enough to enjoy, but still fairly dark in color – it is ready to serve.

Leek Sauce
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
½ lb leek whites, cleaned and finely chopped
½ cup dry white wine
1 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons peanut oil
salt and pepper
In a saucepan combine butter, shallots, and leeks. Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring. Add wine and cook until most of the wine has evaporated. Add the cream and salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Keep sauce warm.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestions

Salmon is a « fatty fish » and needs a dry white wine such as a Riesling, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. For the Salmon a l’Unilatéral, I recommend a Petit Chablis 2010 de chez Jean-Marc Brocard,  a lively wine with exotic fruit flavors. $15.99 at Arlington Wines, or a Viré-Clessé 2008 from Chanson Père et Fils, one of the best white wines of the Macon area combining suppleness and minerality. $16.99 chez Arlington Wines. 

 

 

Lobster, Watermelon & Tomato Salad

This past weekend we had a big party for my 65^th birthday. Four of our best friends (who happen to be French chefs) came to help us celebrate. There were nearly 100 of us at the BBQ where we watched them prepare the muscles in a creamy wine sauce and cook the red snapper, the whole beef tenderloins, and bananas flambe all right on the grill. Christian Delouvrier (La Mangeoire) brought his famous ratatouille, Jean Louis Dumonet (The Union Club) prepared a fabulous Choron Sauce (A Bernaise sauce made with tomato puree) for the beef and Michel Jean (Stissing House) made delicious rum raisin ice cream to serve with the grilled bananas.  I did actually prepare one dish - my French Potato Salad - the very same recipe I wrote up in this column a few weeks ago.  Jean Luc Colombo served up case upon case of his lovely rosé , white and red wines from the Rhone Valley. While it was all wonderfully delicious and fun for a foodie – what I really need to share with you is the incredible dish that was created the night before the party at my home…

With the chefs and their wives we were about a dozen people. I had, of course, prepared a meal, but one of the chefs (Laurent Manrique) brought 5 cold cooked lobster tails from his restaurant (“Millesime” on Madison & 29^th). He asked permission to scavenge my kitchen to see what he could find to put together with the lobster to make an additional appetizer for us.

 “Ah, tu as du pastèque - fantastique!” he said gleefully as he started to cut up my seedless watermelon. He cut it and the lobster into chunks of about the same size and placed them together in a bowl. When he spotted some nice tomatoes he chopped up three or four and added them to the bowl as well. He then emptied the bowl through a strainer reserving the liquid and placing the chunks of lobster, tomatoes and watermelon on a deep dish platter.

He looked me in the eye with a friendly challenge to ask if I had any fresh herbs, and I proudly brought him out onto the deck where I had very recently planted some I had bought at Adams. Joyfully he started picking sprigs of fresh basil, peppermint, and dill and them chopped them up.

“Have you any sherry wine vinegar.. (Thank goodness, I did!) and olive oil?” (I had just gotten a bottle of that great olive oil that Millbrook  Winery sells – thank you Bruce Kimball!!!). Laurent made a vinaigrette and then whisked in the juice that had been strained from the watermelon and tomatoes. He poured this fabulous dressing over the lobster mix, and sprinkled all of the fresh herbs on top. The aromas hit us all as he mixed and then served us. And voila, a beautiful summer salad was created.

I have rarely tasted such a wonderfully refreshing and great tasting dish.  I will make it often. And I understand more than one of the chefs will be adding it to their menus this summer! Why don’t you try it too?

Gerard served an Alsatian Gewurztraminer from Josmeyer which went exquisitely with this bouquet of flavors. And when the dish and the wine combine to each enhance the other, it seems that the planets and stars are perfectly aligned and it is really good to be alive!

Lobster, Tomato & Watermelon Salad
(for 12)

5 cooked lobster tails (cut in chunks)

5 tomatoes (cut in chunks)

¼ of a seedless round watermelon (cut in chunks)

1/3 cup of sherry wine vinegar

2/3 cup of good olive oil (first cold press)

1 bunch fresh basil (chopped)

3 tablespoons of fresh peppermint (chopped)

2 tablespoon fresh dill (chopped)

Mix the lobster, tomato and watermelon chunks in a bowl.

Make a vinaigrette by mixing the vinegar with half of the oil. Whisk. Add the rest of the oil and whisk again. Strain the juices from the lobster, watermelon and tomatoes and whisk into the vinaigrette.

Mix the herbs and sprinkle them over the salad. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and mix. Serve.  

"Fool Proof" Lemon Chicken

This is the recipes I give to inexperienced cooks who are panicking about having to prepare food for a large number of people. If you follow the directions, it is fool proof!

I tend to make Lemon Chicken as a “back up’. During the summer we often entertain large groups of people Sometimes, I am not sure of exactly how many people are coming (I could be off by 5 or  maybe 10), so I find I might need to have extra food.  Also I am not sure of the culinary preferences of all of my guests and might find that I invited a “fish hater”, a “pork decliner” or a couple of “red meat refusers”.   So as a back up, I roast up a batch of Lemon Chicken in the oven and add it to the buffet table as an additional or alternative menu item.  

This recipe produces a chicken that is never dry. It is always moist and tasty but not spicy. It pleases the unadventurous while not looked upon too askance by the “foodies”. It can be eaten hot or at room temperature. Both the Lemon Chicken and the accompanying Roasted Vegetable dish can be cooked in the oven while everyone else is focused on what is happening on the grill.  These dishes have saved me from many potential disasters!

Lemon Chicken

Good quality organic, free range Chicken Pieces (D’Artagnan, Murray’s or Bell & Evans)
Lemon Juice (in the bottle is fine)

Peanut Oil

Salt & Pepper

Quantities are not important but spacing is! Make sure that you fill up the roasting pan with just enough chicken to make one row of pieces that do not touch each other and add just enough liquid to cover most of the chicken while marinating.

Prepare liquid marinade: ½ lemon juice and ½ peanut oil in a roasting pan. (It should come up about half way.) Salt & pepper the chicken pieces and place them in the marinade in the roasting pan. Turn them over so that all sides are basted with liquid and then leave skin side down. Marinate for at least 45 minutes or up to 4 hours.  Preheat oven to 350 F.

Pour out and discard most of the marinade (leaving the lower ¼ of each chicken piece to cook in the marinade). Turn them right side up so that skin side is showing. Only the parts of the chicken that is out of the marinade will brown. Place in oven and roast until the chicken is golden brown (usually 45-60 minutes). When you take the chicken out of the pan, drain on paper towel and place on serving platter with lemon slices and parsley sprigs as a garnish.

Oven Roasted Vegetables

The quantities are not important – neither are proportions.  You can have more than one layer, but make sure that each piece has been coated with the olive oil and seasoning.

An Assortment of Small New Potatoes (well washed and patted dry).

Sweet Potatoes or Yams (washed, peeled and cut into chunks a bit larger than the new potatoes). 
Pearl Onions  (peeled)

Baby Carrots  (washed)

Olive Oil, Salt & Pepper

Preheat oven to 350F. Line a roasting pan with olive oil, salt and pepper.  Place the potatoes, onions and carrots in the pan, rolling them until they are coated with the oil and seasoning. If needed add olive oil, salt, and pepper to top layer. Roast until golden brown and all cooked through. Timing will vary with quantities. – one layer will take 45 – 60 minutes, larger quantities may take as long as two hours.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestion
“I recommend a joyful wine full of spirit from Côtes de Provence - Château Montaud Rosé 2010.   The color is a lovely peachy-orange and it shows scents of ripe melons, citrus and ripe strawberries. The flavors are light and fruity with brisk acidity.  It is a nice “picnic wine” with a little Grenache spice and smoothness and priced under $10 at both Village Wine in Millbrook and Arlington Wine & Spirit in Pleasant Valley”.

Seven Secrets to Grilling Steaks!

Grilling is a high heat cooking method done directly over live flames, cooking food in a matter of minutes. A few tips will make your grilled steaks even more delicious!

1/. Preheat Grill – Make it very hot!
When using charcoal let it burn until it is covered with a thin coat of gray ash. Hold your hand about 6 inches above the grate, if after three seconds you are forced to pull your hand away – the fire is ready. The grill must be very hot to properly sear the meat creating a crusty surface texture and caramelizing the natural sugars to produce that steak flavor we love!

2/. Meat at Room Temperature
Take out of fridge an hour or two before cooking so it is no longer cold inside when you are ready to grill it. If not, the steak will toughen and still be cold in the middle when done on the outside, or just overcooked through and through!

3/. Lubricate the meat not the grill.
Lightly rub the steak(s) with olive oil and then liberally season both sides with salt and black pepper on both sides. The salt will bring some of the meat's juices to the surface and help to form the brown crust that is a sign of good grilling. 

4/. Use Tongs Not Forks

Do not use utensils that stab the meat and let the precious juices run out, but tongs that enable you to move and turn the meat without puncturing it.

5/. Cook it fast and get it off the grill!
The real secret to a juicy steak is to get it cooked fast and to get it off the grill the second it's done. Letting a steak sit on a grill too long will dry out the meat. Generally a steak needs to be cooked 3 minutes on one side and then turned over for another 3 minutes. Flip and repeat process.

6/. Give it a rest

Let the grilled meat stand on the cutting board for about seven minutes to allow the juices which have been driven to the center of the meat during the cooking process to redistribute through out, producing a juicier tastier cut of meat. (The meat will continue to cook a bit during this process, so take it off of the grill at a little less done than how you want to serve it).

7/. Use the right cuts of meat
Large roasts cook better with indirect heating, but direct grilling is perfect with smaller cuts like steaks. Select steaks that are about one inch to an inch and a half thick. and well marbled to give you that juicy tasty flavor steak lovers crave. The best steaks for grilling are:. 

Rib Eye Steaks
Hand cut and trimmed from the heart of the prime rib. Traditionally a favorite among steak lovers, this tender and juicy steak is perfect for grilling on or off the bone. (This is my personal favorite.)

The New York Strip
A perfect balance between a high fat steak (Ribeye) and a very lean steak like a Sirloin or Filet (which do not do as well grilled). Good marbling very good for grilling.

T-Bone or Porterhouse
Two steaks in one! One side is a full New York Strip, and the other side is Filet. The Filet size on a T-Bone is smaller than the Porterhouse which has a large Filet portion.

Flank Steaks
This is a lean, flat cut that's fairly tender and extremely flavorful.  It can be grilled (pre-marinated or not) but don't cook past medium rare or it will become very tough.  Before serving, cut the steak into thin slices at a slant against the grain.

Grilling Side Dishes

Grilled Vidalia Onions

Cut Vidalia (or other large sweet onions) in large slices (about ¼” thick) and place each slice in aluminum foil with olive oil, salt and pepper on both sides of onion slice). Wrap and close foil. Grill until tender and slightly darkened.

Grilled “Baked Potatoes”
Take a piece of aluminum foil large enough for your potato. Pour about a tablespoon of olive oil in the center. Season with salt and pepper. Place the potato on the oil, roll it around to coat with the oil and wrap it up. The oil will keep it moist and the seasonings will add flavor. Place them anywhere on the grill away from the high heat, like an upper rack or off to the side. Baked potatoes will take about 45 minutes to an hour to cook .You can tell they are done when a fork pierces to the center easily..

Grilling Corn in the Husk:

I prefer to grill the corn while still in its husk, silk and all. If the ears have many layers of husk on them, peel off  the first few only, leaving a few layers for protection.  Soak completely covered in cold water for 15 minutes. This will provide extra moisture for cooking and will steam the corn kernels inside the husks. Place the corn on the grill as soon as the initial flames from the charcoal die down and the coals are still red-hot. Take care not to crowd the grill, which would choke off too much air to the coals. Grill the corn, turning often, until the first layer of husk is completely charred. This should take from 5 to 10 minutes. To remove the corn from its husk, cut the stem end up to the bottom of the ear and peel back the husks and silk. Brush away any burnt silks. Dress the corn as with butter and salt.  

Potatoes – Old and New!

One of the questions I get most often, is which type of potato should be used for which cooking method, so I thought I would clear that up this week. 

Old Potatoes: “Russets” or “Idaho” (if grown in Idaho) are harvested when mature. Oblong with a rough, dark brown skin, they are low in moisture and high in starch so their white flesh does not keep its shape when cooked. They’re excellent for baking, mashing, whipping, and French fries

New Potatoes: is a term for any variety of potato that has been harvested before the sugar has converted to starch. They come to market in spring and summer, are thin skinned, very moist and have a waxy textured flesh. They keep their shape and are best for cooking whole, pan roasting, frying, sautéing, stewing, or boiling and used in potato salads. Most commonly found in our area are:

• Long whites are light-skinned potatoes. They cook faster and are sweeter than Russets. To bake, wrap in foil and pierce both the foil and skin with a fork to release steam.
• Yellows (Yukon Gold) have thin, yellowish or light brown skins, and buttery yellow flesh. They are low to medium in starch and have a moist, creamy, succulent texture with a buttery flavor.
• Round whites are medium-sized, round with a light skin.  They are moist with low to medium starch. 
• Reds are small to medium-sized with a rose to reddish-brown skin and a dense white flesh. They are low in starch and are sweeter tasting than whites.
• Fingerlings are thumb-sized potatoes that are thin skinned. They are yellow fleshed with a rich, buttery texture, low in starch and hold together well after cooking. Varieties include ruby crescent, Russian banana, and long whites.

Selecting 
Try to buy potatoes where you can purchase them loose and inspect each one before selecting. Our farmers’ markets, produce stands and many local markets are have potatoes from local growers of good spuds (MacEnroes, Schroeders, Wigstons, and there are several good growers in Red Hook and Columbia County).  Look for potatoes that show no sprouts from the eyes, no cuts, dark spots or greenish tints. The green is often from being exposed to light for too long and can indicate a bitter taste or even harmful toxins. 

Storing
Potatoes should not be stored in the refrigerator because the cold makes their starch turn to sugar. They thrive in the dark and are best kept in a burlap or paper bag. Quickly remove any potatoes that have sprouted or shriveled before they spoil the others. New potatoes are highly perishable and will only keep for a week or so. Do not freeze potatoes  – cooked or raw.  

Wine Suggestions
Since wine is best paired with the protein in a meal, we are not giving any suggestions this week.  I am also not indicating amounts or timings because they vary according to size of potatoes and number of people you are serving.

Never Fail French Fries
Large russet or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch thick sticks
Peanut Oil
Salt and pepper
Rinse cut potatoes in a large bowl with lots of cold running water until water becomes clear. Cover with water by 1-inch and cover with ice. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days. Heat oil (until some drops of water cause a splatter) over medium-low heat in a 5-quart pot making sure that you have at least 3 inches of space between the top of the oil and the top of the pan, as fries will bubble up when they are added.  Drain ice water from cut fries and thoroughly pat dry. Increase the heat to medium-high and add fries, a handful at a time, to the hot oil. Fry until potatoes are soft and limp and begin to turn a blond color (5-7 minutes). Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove fries from the oil and drain on paper towels. Turn off heat.  Let rest for at least 10 minutes or up to 2 hours. When ready to serve the French fries,  reheat the oil and transfer the blanched potatoes to the hot oil and fry again, stirring frequently, until golden brown and puffed, about 1 minute. Transfer to paper lined platter. Pat dry with paper towel and sprinkle with salt and pepper, to taste. Serve immediately.

Roasted Potatoes
Any New Potatoes (washed and patted dry - peeling is optional). 
Small White or Pearl Onions (peeled)
Olive Oil, Salt & Pepper
Preheat oven to 350F. Line a roasting pan with olive oil, salt and pepper.  Place the potatoes and onions in the pan, rolling them until they are coated with the oil and seasoning. Roast until golden brown (about 40-45 minutes)

French Potato Salad (I usually get asked to bring this to picnics and BBQs)
Any New Potatoes (washed and patted dry). 
Shallots (chopped)
Fresh Parsley
1 Tablespoon of Dijon Mustard. (I prefer, Maille, sold at Marona’s)
¹/₃ Cup of Red Wine Vinegar (I like Dal Raccolta Old Chianti Vinegar which I buy it at Quattros)
1 Cup of Vegetable Oil (I use Peant Oil)
Salt And Fresh Ground Pepper

Place mustard at bottom of the salad bowl in which you will serve the potato salad. Add vinegar and season.with salt and pepper. Add 1/3 of oil. Whisk until thickens. Add 2nd third of oil. Whisk until thicker. Add last third of oil. Whisk again. Congratulations! You just made your own vinaigrette sauce! Add the chopped shallots. Boil potatoes in their skins until soft. Drain and peel while still warm. The skin comes off very easily when cooked, but you will need a paper towel to hold the hot potatoes. Cut potatoes in halves or quarters and place while still warm into the vinaigrette (they won’t absorb the sauce once cooled).  Add half the parsley, salt, pepper and stir.  Add the rest of the parsley, salt, pepper and let stand (do not refrigerate).

Shrimp Tips & Recipes

Shrimp season is from May to October. There are over 300 species whose flavors and textures are influenced by the waters in which they lived, the foods they ate and their ability to swim freely or not. Here are some tips on how to select, store and cook shrimp.

Tip#1: Pre-cooked, Fresh or Frozen Shrimp?
For many years I served pre-cooked shrimp with cocktail sauce. Sometimes the shrimp were pretty good, sometimes it had that carton texture and little to no flavor.  So, I tried cooking it myself, and would never buy pre-cooked again.  Fresh shrimp, on the other hand, is highly perishable! Unless you can actually buy "truly fresh" shrimp and cook it within 24-36 hours, it is best to buy frozen shrimp.

Tip#2: What to avoid
Avoid shrimp that smells of anything other than salt water. An ammonia odor is a sign of shrimp way past its prime. Truly fresh shrimp will have almost translucent flesh. Do not buy raw shrimp that is already pink or frozen shrimp that has been peeled and deveined before freezing (this robs the shrimp of flavor, changes the texture and limits the cooking possibilities)
.
Tip #3: Defrosting Frozen Shrimp
Defrost shrimp either in the refrigerator or in ice cold water. Never defrost in a warm place or microwave.


Tip # 4: How To De-vein Shrimp
The black "vein" that runs along the back of the shrimp is its digestive tract which is technically edible; but shrimp look and taste very better when de-veined!. Shrimp cook well in or out of their shells, but are easier to de-vein before cooking. Remove shell and run a de-veiner or the tip of a small knife down the back of the shrimp cutting in just enough to enable you to remove the vein.


Tip # 5: How To Freeze Shrimp
Freeze fresh shrimp raw in their shells with heads removed.


Tip # 6: How To Boil Shrimp:
Shrimp’s sweet delicate flavors are easily be ruined by overcooking. Place a pound of shrimp in a quart of rapidly boiling water with three tablespoons of salt. Reduce the heat, cover the pan, and return to a boil. Let simmer until the flesh has lost its glossy appearance and is opaque in center (cut one to test). Timing varies so keep checking the appearance. Jumbo shrimp take 5 to 7 minutes, large shrimp take from 4 to 6 minutes, and medium size can be done in 2 to 3 minutes. Drain quickly when ready. Do not let shrimp cool in their cooking liquid or they will continue to cook and get tough. (My preferred recipe for shrimp cocktail is below.)


Tip # 5: How To Grill Shrimp:  Once the grill is hot, place the large shrimp (or skewered small shrimp) on the grill, leaving room between shrimp (or skewers). Brush with a little olive oil and then sprinkle them with salt, and pepper. Grill for 2 minutes and turn, grill for another minute or two or until they are pink. Remove from the heat and serve.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestions

 Preferably choose a dry white wine, on the fruit and relatively simple.

Pinot Grigio Era 2009 from Veneto – 100% Pinot Grigio Hints of apples, gentle citrus notes and a long smooth finish. Easy to drink. $15 @ Village Wine in Millbrook

Pouilly Fumé Les Charmes Chatelain 2009 from the Loire Valley – 100% Sauvignon Blanc Very discreet, aroma of young Sauvignon, flinty with toast and vanilla flavors. $18 @ Village Wine in Millbrook.

Riesling Zind-Humbrecht 2008 from Alsace – 100% Riesling

A well-cut Riesling, offering a salty mineral note and laserlike acidity that defines the quince, yellow peach and floral notes. $23.99 @ Arlington Wine in Poughkeepsie.

Best Shrimp Cocktail
The day before (or at least 6 hours prior to) serving fresh shrimp, take them out of their shells. Wash and place shells in water with a bit of salt. Bring to a boil and simmer shells for at least 30 minutes. Meanwhile, de-vein shrimp, keeping at room temperature. Discard the shells. Bring the liquid back to a boil.  Place medium size shrimp in boiling water for 1 minute and thirty seconds, or large and jumbo shrimp for 2-3 minutes. Drain. Refrigerate overnight or for at least 6 hours.
Dipping Sauce
Small bottle of Cocktail Sauce
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt & Pepper
1 cup peanut oil
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

At the bottom of small bowl, place mustard and egg yolk. Whisk. Add salt & pepper. Slowly drizzle a little peanut oil into egg yolk mixture whisking briskly. As the sauce thickens and lightens it is emulsifying. Continue to whisk as you slowly drizzle the rest of peanut oil into the mixture. It should become thick and fluffy holding its own shape. Whisk in vinegar. Congratulations! You just made your own mayonnaise, and I am willing to bet that it is better than anything you can find in a jar! Mix with a ratio of 3 parts mayo and one part cccktail sauce.  Serve with the shrimp

Shrimp & Rice with Shallots (This is the recipe that is requested most often by my guests)

serves 4-6

24 unshelled cleaned (deveined) jumbo shrimp

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1/3 cup finely chopped shallots

1 cup dry white wine

¾ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

4 tablespoon finely chopped parsley leaves

3-4 cups of warm cooked rice (follow package directions)

Melt two tablespoons of butter in a large frying pan over high heat. Add shrimp, season with salt & pepper and cook until pink (for 2-3 minutes) stirring from time to time. Transfer shrimp to a warm platter. Add 1 tablespoon butter to the pan with shallots and the wine. Boil until liquid has thickened and reduced to about half. Add cream and mustard and cook for another 2 minutes. Take off the heat and add shrimp to the sauce. Stir. Add remaining butter, sprinkle parsley and serve immediately over rice. 

 If you have tried any of my recipes, please let me know how it went at RonaBoyer@gmail.com