Salmon a L’Unilatéral with Creamy Leek Sauce

I discovered this sumptuous yet simple dish at a famous Danish Restaurant (Flora Danica) on the Champs Elysees of Paris. They grill the salmon on one side only and cook it until it is just about warm inside. ..served very rare –flavorful and moist. I love salmon this way. Of course if you are going to insist on having your salmon well done, dry and flaky, you can turn it over and cook the second side for a few minutes longer – but you will not enjoy it as much as I will! I guess you can also choose to find a happy medium. Prepare the sauce and when ready start grilling the salmon.

Salmon
4 pieces of salmon with skin still attached (as thick as possible) about 4 ounces each
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
Olive Oil
On the grill or in a non-stick pan
Brush some olive oil on the meat side of the salmon
Place salmon skin side down on the grill.
Salt with coarse salt
Let grill for about 6-12 minutes.
When skin is nice and crispy and the salmon just warm enough to enjoy, but still fairly dark in color – it is ready to serve.

Leek Sauce
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
½ lb leek whites, cleaned and finely chopped
½ cup dry white wine
1 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons peanut oil
salt and pepper
In a saucepan combine butter, shallots, and leeks. Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring. Add wine and cook until most of the wine has evaporated. Add the cream and salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Keep sauce warm.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestions

Salmon is a « fatty fish » and needs a dry white wine such as a Riesling, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. For the Salmon a l’Unilatéral, I recommend a Petit Chablis 2010 de chez Jean-Marc Brocard,  a lively wine with exotic fruit flavors. $15.99 at Arlington Wines, or a Viré-Clessé 2008 from Chanson Père et Fils, one of the best white wines of the Macon area combining suppleness and minerality. $16.99 chez Arlington Wines. 

 

 

Lobster, Watermelon & Tomato Salad

This past weekend we had a big party for my 65^th birthday. Four of our best friends (who happen to be French chefs) came to help us celebrate. There were nearly 100 of us at the BBQ where we watched them prepare the muscles in a creamy wine sauce and cook the red snapper, the whole beef tenderloins, and bananas flambe all right on the grill. Christian Delouvrier (La Mangeoire) brought his famous ratatouille, Jean Louis Dumonet (The Union Club) prepared a fabulous Choron Sauce (A Bernaise sauce made with tomato puree) for the beef and Michel Jean (Stissing House) made delicious rum raisin ice cream to serve with the grilled bananas.  I did actually prepare one dish - my French Potato Salad - the very same recipe I wrote up in this column a few weeks ago.  Jean Luc Colombo served up case upon case of his lovely rosé , white and red wines from the Rhone Valley. While it was all wonderfully delicious and fun for a foodie – what I really need to share with you is the incredible dish that was created the night before the party at my home…

With the chefs and their wives we were about a dozen people. I had, of course, prepared a meal, but one of the chefs (Laurent Manrique) brought 5 cold cooked lobster tails from his restaurant (“Millesime” on Madison & 29^th). He asked permission to scavenge my kitchen to see what he could find to put together with the lobster to make an additional appetizer for us.

 “Ah, tu as du pastèque - fantastique!” he said gleefully as he started to cut up my seedless watermelon. He cut it and the lobster into chunks of about the same size and placed them together in a bowl. When he spotted some nice tomatoes he chopped up three or four and added them to the bowl as well. He then emptied the bowl through a strainer reserving the liquid and placing the chunks of lobster, tomatoes and watermelon on a deep dish platter.

He looked me in the eye with a friendly challenge to ask if I had any fresh herbs, and I proudly brought him out onto the deck where I had very recently planted some I had bought at Adams. Joyfully he started picking sprigs of fresh basil, peppermint, and dill and them chopped them up.

“Have you any sherry wine vinegar.. (Thank goodness, I did!) and olive oil?” (I had just gotten a bottle of that great olive oil that Millbrook  Winery sells – thank you Bruce Kimball!!!). Laurent made a vinaigrette and then whisked in the juice that had been strained from the watermelon and tomatoes. He poured this fabulous dressing over the lobster mix, and sprinkled all of the fresh herbs on top. The aromas hit us all as he mixed and then served us. And voila, a beautiful summer salad was created.

I have rarely tasted such a wonderfully refreshing and great tasting dish.  I will make it often. And I understand more than one of the chefs will be adding it to their menus this summer! Why don’t you try it too?

Gerard served an Alsatian Gewurztraminer from Josmeyer which went exquisitely with this bouquet of flavors. And when the dish and the wine combine to each enhance the other, it seems that the planets and stars are perfectly aligned and it is really good to be alive!

Lobster, Tomato & Watermelon Salad
(for 12)

5 cooked lobster tails (cut in chunks)

5 tomatoes (cut in chunks)

¼ of a seedless round watermelon (cut in chunks)

1/3 cup of sherry wine vinegar

2/3 cup of good olive oil (first cold press)

1 bunch fresh basil (chopped)

3 tablespoons of fresh peppermint (chopped)

2 tablespoon fresh dill (chopped)

Mix the lobster, tomato and watermelon chunks in a bowl.

Make a vinaigrette by mixing the vinegar with half of the oil. Whisk. Add the rest of the oil and whisk again. Strain the juices from the lobster, watermelon and tomatoes and whisk into the vinaigrette.

Mix the herbs and sprinkle them over the salad. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and mix. Serve.  

"Fool Proof" Lemon Chicken

This is the recipes I give to inexperienced cooks who are panicking about having to prepare food for a large number of people. If you follow the directions, it is fool proof!

I tend to make Lemon Chicken as a “back up’. During the summer we often entertain large groups of people Sometimes, I am not sure of exactly how many people are coming (I could be off by 5 or  maybe 10), so I find I might need to have extra food.  Also I am not sure of the culinary preferences of all of my guests and might find that I invited a “fish hater”, a “pork decliner” or a couple of “red meat refusers”.   So as a back up, I roast up a batch of Lemon Chicken in the oven and add it to the buffet table as an additional or alternative menu item.  

This recipe produces a chicken that is never dry. It is always moist and tasty but not spicy. It pleases the unadventurous while not looked upon too askance by the “foodies”. It can be eaten hot or at room temperature. Both the Lemon Chicken and the accompanying Roasted Vegetable dish can be cooked in the oven while everyone else is focused on what is happening on the grill.  These dishes have saved me from many potential disasters!

Lemon Chicken

Good quality organic, free range Chicken Pieces (D’Artagnan, Murray’s or Bell & Evans)
Lemon Juice (in the bottle is fine)

Peanut Oil

Salt & Pepper

Quantities are not important but spacing is! Make sure that you fill up the roasting pan with just enough chicken to make one row of pieces that do not touch each other and add just enough liquid to cover most of the chicken while marinating.

Prepare liquid marinade: ½ lemon juice and ½ peanut oil in a roasting pan. (It should come up about half way.) Salt & pepper the chicken pieces and place them in the marinade in the roasting pan. Turn them over so that all sides are basted with liquid and then leave skin side down. Marinate for at least 45 minutes or up to 4 hours.  Preheat oven to 350 F.

Pour out and discard most of the marinade (leaving the lower ¼ of each chicken piece to cook in the marinade). Turn them right side up so that skin side is showing. Only the parts of the chicken that is out of the marinade will brown. Place in oven and roast until the chicken is golden brown (usually 45-60 minutes). When you take the chicken out of the pan, drain on paper towel and place on serving platter with lemon slices and parsley sprigs as a garnish.

Oven Roasted Vegetables

The quantities are not important – neither are proportions.  You can have more than one layer, but make sure that each piece has been coated with the olive oil and seasoning.

An Assortment of Small New Potatoes (well washed and patted dry).

Sweet Potatoes or Yams (washed, peeled and cut into chunks a bit larger than the new potatoes). 
Pearl Onions  (peeled)

Baby Carrots  (washed)

Olive Oil, Salt & Pepper

Preheat oven to 350F. Line a roasting pan with olive oil, salt and pepper.  Place the potatoes, onions and carrots in the pan, rolling them until they are coated with the oil and seasoning. If needed add olive oil, salt, and pepper to top layer. Roast until golden brown and all cooked through. Timing will vary with quantities. – one layer will take 45 – 60 minutes, larger quantities may take as long as two hours.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestion
“I recommend a joyful wine full of spirit from Côtes de Provence - Château Montaud Rosé 2010.   The color is a lovely peachy-orange and it shows scents of ripe melons, citrus and ripe strawberries. The flavors are light and fruity with brisk acidity.  It is a nice “picnic wine” with a little Grenache spice and smoothness and priced under $10 at both Village Wine in Millbrook and Arlington Wine & Spirit in Pleasant Valley”.

Seven Secrets to Grilling Steaks!

Grilling is a high heat cooking method done directly over live flames, cooking food in a matter of minutes. A few tips will make your grilled steaks even more delicious!

1/. Preheat Grill – Make it very hot!
When using charcoal let it burn until it is covered with a thin coat of gray ash. Hold your hand about 6 inches above the grate, if after three seconds you are forced to pull your hand away – the fire is ready. The grill must be very hot to properly sear the meat creating a crusty surface texture and caramelizing the natural sugars to produce that steak flavor we love!

2/. Meat at Room Temperature
Take out of fridge an hour or two before cooking so it is no longer cold inside when you are ready to grill it. If not, the steak will toughen and still be cold in the middle when done on the outside, or just overcooked through and through!

3/. Lubricate the meat not the grill.
Lightly rub the steak(s) with olive oil and then liberally season both sides with salt and black pepper on both sides. The salt will bring some of the meat's juices to the surface and help to form the brown crust that is a sign of good grilling. 

4/. Use Tongs Not Forks

Do not use utensils that stab the meat and let the precious juices run out, but tongs that enable you to move and turn the meat without puncturing it.

5/. Cook it fast and get it off the grill!
The real secret to a juicy steak is to get it cooked fast and to get it off the grill the second it's done. Letting a steak sit on a grill too long will dry out the meat. Generally a steak needs to be cooked 3 minutes on one side and then turned over for another 3 minutes. Flip and repeat process.

6/. Give it a rest

Let the grilled meat stand on the cutting board for about seven minutes to allow the juices which have been driven to the center of the meat during the cooking process to redistribute through out, producing a juicier tastier cut of meat. (The meat will continue to cook a bit during this process, so take it off of the grill at a little less done than how you want to serve it).

7/. Use the right cuts of meat
Large roasts cook better with indirect heating, but direct grilling is perfect with smaller cuts like steaks. Select steaks that are about one inch to an inch and a half thick. and well marbled to give you that juicy tasty flavor steak lovers crave. The best steaks for grilling are:. 

Rib Eye Steaks
Hand cut and trimmed from the heart of the prime rib. Traditionally a favorite among steak lovers, this tender and juicy steak is perfect for grilling on or off the bone. (This is my personal favorite.)

The New York Strip
A perfect balance between a high fat steak (Ribeye) and a very lean steak like a Sirloin or Filet (which do not do as well grilled). Good marbling very good for grilling.

T-Bone or Porterhouse
Two steaks in one! One side is a full New York Strip, and the other side is Filet. The Filet size on a T-Bone is smaller than the Porterhouse which has a large Filet portion.

Flank Steaks
This is a lean, flat cut that's fairly tender and extremely flavorful.  It can be grilled (pre-marinated or not) but don't cook past medium rare or it will become very tough.  Before serving, cut the steak into thin slices at a slant against the grain.

Grilling Side Dishes

Grilled Vidalia Onions

Cut Vidalia (or other large sweet onions) in large slices (about ¼” thick) and place each slice in aluminum foil with olive oil, salt and pepper on both sides of onion slice). Wrap and close foil. Grill until tender and slightly darkened.

Grilled “Baked Potatoes”
Take a piece of aluminum foil large enough for your potato. Pour about a tablespoon of olive oil in the center. Season with salt and pepper. Place the potato on the oil, roll it around to coat with the oil and wrap it up. The oil will keep it moist and the seasonings will add flavor. Place them anywhere on the grill away from the high heat, like an upper rack or off to the side. Baked potatoes will take about 45 minutes to an hour to cook .You can tell they are done when a fork pierces to the center easily..

Grilling Corn in the Husk:

I prefer to grill the corn while still in its husk, silk and all. If the ears have many layers of husk on them, peel off  the first few only, leaving a few layers for protection.  Soak completely covered in cold water for 15 minutes. This will provide extra moisture for cooking and will steam the corn kernels inside the husks. Place the corn on the grill as soon as the initial flames from the charcoal die down and the coals are still red-hot. Take care not to crowd the grill, which would choke off too much air to the coals. Grill the corn, turning often, until the first layer of husk is completely charred. This should take from 5 to 10 minutes. To remove the corn from its husk, cut the stem end up to the bottom of the ear and peel back the husks and silk. Brush away any burnt silks. Dress the corn as with butter and salt.  

Potatoes – Old and New!

One of the questions I get most often, is which type of potato should be used for which cooking method, so I thought I would clear that up this week. 

Old Potatoes: “Russets” or “Idaho” (if grown in Idaho) are harvested when mature. Oblong with a rough, dark brown skin, they are low in moisture and high in starch so their white flesh does not keep its shape when cooked. They’re excellent for baking, mashing, whipping, and French fries

New Potatoes: is a term for any variety of potato that has been harvested before the sugar has converted to starch. They come to market in spring and summer, are thin skinned, very moist and have a waxy textured flesh. They keep their shape and are best for cooking whole, pan roasting, frying, sautéing, stewing, or boiling and used in potato salads. Most commonly found in our area are:

• Long whites are light-skinned potatoes. They cook faster and are sweeter than Russets. To bake, wrap in foil and pierce both the foil and skin with a fork to release steam.
• Yellows (Yukon Gold) have thin, yellowish or light brown skins, and buttery yellow flesh. They are low to medium in starch and have a moist, creamy, succulent texture with a buttery flavor.
• Round whites are medium-sized, round with a light skin.  They are moist with low to medium starch. 
• Reds are small to medium-sized with a rose to reddish-brown skin and a dense white flesh. They are low in starch and are sweeter tasting than whites.
• Fingerlings are thumb-sized potatoes that are thin skinned. They are yellow fleshed with a rich, buttery texture, low in starch and hold together well after cooking. Varieties include ruby crescent, Russian banana, and long whites.

Selecting 
Try to buy potatoes where you can purchase them loose and inspect each one before selecting. Our farmers’ markets, produce stands and many local markets are have potatoes from local growers of good spuds (MacEnroes, Schroeders, Wigstons, and there are several good growers in Red Hook and Columbia County).  Look for potatoes that show no sprouts from the eyes, no cuts, dark spots or greenish tints. The green is often from being exposed to light for too long and can indicate a bitter taste or even harmful toxins. 

Storing
Potatoes should not be stored in the refrigerator because the cold makes their starch turn to sugar. They thrive in the dark and are best kept in a burlap or paper bag. Quickly remove any potatoes that have sprouted or shriveled before they spoil the others. New potatoes are highly perishable and will only keep for a week or so. Do not freeze potatoes  – cooked or raw.  

Wine Suggestions
Since wine is best paired with the protein in a meal, we are not giving any suggestions this week.  I am also not indicating amounts or timings because they vary according to size of potatoes and number of people you are serving.

Never Fail French Fries
Large russet or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch thick sticks
Peanut Oil
Salt and pepper
Rinse cut potatoes in a large bowl with lots of cold running water until water becomes clear. Cover with water by 1-inch and cover with ice. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days. Heat oil (until some drops of water cause a splatter) over medium-low heat in a 5-quart pot making sure that you have at least 3 inches of space between the top of the oil and the top of the pan, as fries will bubble up when they are added.  Drain ice water from cut fries and thoroughly pat dry. Increase the heat to medium-high and add fries, a handful at a time, to the hot oil. Fry until potatoes are soft and limp and begin to turn a blond color (5-7 minutes). Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove fries from the oil and drain on paper towels. Turn off heat.  Let rest for at least 10 minutes or up to 2 hours. When ready to serve the French fries,  reheat the oil and transfer the blanched potatoes to the hot oil and fry again, stirring frequently, until golden brown and puffed, about 1 minute. Transfer to paper lined platter. Pat dry with paper towel and sprinkle with salt and pepper, to taste. Serve immediately.

Roasted Potatoes
Any New Potatoes (washed and patted dry - peeling is optional). 
Small White or Pearl Onions (peeled)
Olive Oil, Salt & Pepper
Preheat oven to 350F. Line a roasting pan with olive oil, salt and pepper.  Place the potatoes and onions in the pan, rolling them until they are coated with the oil and seasoning. Roast until golden brown (about 40-45 minutes)

French Potato Salad (I usually get asked to bring this to picnics and BBQs)
Any New Potatoes (washed and patted dry). 
Shallots (chopped)
Fresh Parsley
1 Tablespoon of Dijon Mustard. (I prefer, Maille, sold at Marona’s)
¹/₃ Cup of Red Wine Vinegar (I like Dal Raccolta Old Chianti Vinegar which I buy it at Quattros)
1 Cup of Vegetable Oil (I use Peant Oil)
Salt And Fresh Ground Pepper

Place mustard at bottom of the salad bowl in which you will serve the potato salad. Add vinegar and season.with salt and pepper. Add 1/3 of oil. Whisk until thickens. Add 2nd third of oil. Whisk until thicker. Add last third of oil. Whisk again. Congratulations! You just made your own vinaigrette sauce! Add the chopped shallots. Boil potatoes in their skins until soft. Drain and peel while still warm. The skin comes off very easily when cooked, but you will need a paper towel to hold the hot potatoes. Cut potatoes in halves or quarters and place while still warm into the vinaigrette (they won’t absorb the sauce once cooled).  Add half the parsley, salt, pepper and stir.  Add the rest of the parsley, salt, pepper and let stand (do not refrigerate).

Shrimp Tips & Recipes

Shrimp season is from May to October. There are over 300 species whose flavors and textures are influenced by the waters in which they lived, the foods they ate and their ability to swim freely or not. Here are some tips on how to select, store and cook shrimp.

Tip#1: Pre-cooked, Fresh or Frozen Shrimp?
For many years I served pre-cooked shrimp with cocktail sauce. Sometimes the shrimp were pretty good, sometimes it had that carton texture and little to no flavor.  So, I tried cooking it myself, and would never buy pre-cooked again.  Fresh shrimp, on the other hand, is highly perishable! Unless you can actually buy "truly fresh" shrimp and cook it within 24-36 hours, it is best to buy frozen shrimp.

Tip#2: What to avoid
Avoid shrimp that smells of anything other than salt water. An ammonia odor is a sign of shrimp way past its prime. Truly fresh shrimp will have almost translucent flesh. Do not buy raw shrimp that is already pink or frozen shrimp that has been peeled and deveined before freezing (this robs the shrimp of flavor, changes the texture and limits the cooking possibilities)
.
Tip #3: Defrosting Frozen Shrimp
Defrost shrimp either in the refrigerator or in ice cold water. Never defrost in a warm place or microwave.


Tip # 4: How To De-vein Shrimp
The black "vein" that runs along the back of the shrimp is its digestive tract which is technically edible; but shrimp look and taste very better when de-veined!. Shrimp cook well in or out of their shells, but are easier to de-vein before cooking. Remove shell and run a de-veiner or the tip of a small knife down the back of the shrimp cutting in just enough to enable you to remove the vein.


Tip # 5: How To Freeze Shrimp
Freeze fresh shrimp raw in their shells with heads removed.


Tip # 6: How To Boil Shrimp:
Shrimp’s sweet delicate flavors are easily be ruined by overcooking. Place a pound of shrimp in a quart of rapidly boiling water with three tablespoons of salt. Reduce the heat, cover the pan, and return to a boil. Let simmer until the flesh has lost its glossy appearance and is opaque in center (cut one to test). Timing varies so keep checking the appearance. Jumbo shrimp take 5 to 7 minutes, large shrimp take from 4 to 6 minutes, and medium size can be done in 2 to 3 minutes. Drain quickly when ready. Do not let shrimp cool in their cooking liquid or they will continue to cook and get tough. (My preferred recipe for shrimp cocktail is below.)


Tip # 5: How To Grill Shrimp:  Once the grill is hot, place the large shrimp (or skewered small shrimp) on the grill, leaving room between shrimp (or skewers). Brush with a little olive oil and then sprinkle them with salt, and pepper. Grill for 2 minutes and turn, grill for another minute or two or until they are pink. Remove from the heat and serve.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestions

 Preferably choose a dry white wine, on the fruit and relatively simple.

Pinot Grigio Era 2009 from Veneto – 100% Pinot Grigio Hints of apples, gentle citrus notes and a long smooth finish. Easy to drink. $15 @ Village Wine in Millbrook

Pouilly Fumé Les Charmes Chatelain 2009 from the Loire Valley – 100% Sauvignon Blanc Very discreet, aroma of young Sauvignon, flinty with toast and vanilla flavors. $18 @ Village Wine in Millbrook.

Riesling Zind-Humbrecht 2008 from Alsace – 100% Riesling

A well-cut Riesling, offering a salty mineral note and laserlike acidity that defines the quince, yellow peach and floral notes. $23.99 @ Arlington Wine in Poughkeepsie.

Best Shrimp Cocktail
The day before (or at least 6 hours prior to) serving fresh shrimp, take them out of their shells. Wash and place shells in water with a bit of salt. Bring to a boil and simmer shells for at least 30 minutes. Meanwhile, de-vein shrimp, keeping at room temperature. Discard the shells. Bring the liquid back to a boil.  Place medium size shrimp in boiling water for 1 minute and thirty seconds, or large and jumbo shrimp for 2-3 minutes. Drain. Refrigerate overnight or for at least 6 hours.
Dipping Sauce
Small bottle of Cocktail Sauce
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt & Pepper
1 cup peanut oil
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

At the bottom of small bowl, place mustard and egg yolk. Whisk. Add salt & pepper. Slowly drizzle a little peanut oil into egg yolk mixture whisking briskly. As the sauce thickens and lightens it is emulsifying. Continue to whisk as you slowly drizzle the rest of peanut oil into the mixture. It should become thick and fluffy holding its own shape. Whisk in vinegar. Congratulations! You just made your own mayonnaise, and I am willing to bet that it is better than anything you can find in a jar! Mix with a ratio of 3 parts mayo and one part cccktail sauce.  Serve with the shrimp

Shrimp & Rice with Shallots (This is the recipe that is requested most often by my guests)

serves 4-6

24 unshelled cleaned (deveined) jumbo shrimp

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1/3 cup finely chopped shallots

1 cup dry white wine

¾ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

4 tablespoon finely chopped parsley leaves

3-4 cups of warm cooked rice (follow package directions)

Melt two tablespoons of butter in a large frying pan over high heat. Add shrimp, season with salt & pepper and cook until pink (for 2-3 minutes) stirring from time to time. Transfer shrimp to a warm platter. Add 1 tablespoon butter to the pan with shallots and the wine. Boil until liquid has thickened and reduced to about half. Add cream and mustard and cook for another 2 minutes. Take off the heat and add shrimp to the sauce. Stir. Add remaining butter, sprinkle parsley and serve immediately over rice. 

 If you have tried any of my recipes, please let me know how it went at RonaBoyer@gmail.com

Asparagus Season is Here!

Asparagus has very low saturated fats and possess very high fiber content, folic acid, potassium and variety of vitamins (A, B, C and iron). Its minimal Glycemic index makes it excellent for diabetics and diets.  It is also the only vegetable that contains Glutathione, an antioxidant found in the body that is known to fight bad cholesterol, water retention and major diseases such as cancer and Alzheimer’s. But in spite of how good it is for you -  asparagus is absolutely delicious!!!!!

Selecting: Choose your asparagus with a firm stalk, tight tips and a vivid color. White asparagus (considered far superior by Europeans) comes from the same plant but is deprived of light so it cannot produce chlorophyll to give it a green color. Thinner stalks mean the plant was younger and more tender than thicker stalks. White asparagus are usually wonderful even when thick.

Conserving: Asparagus does not keep well (3 days maximum in a wet towel in refrigerator): ideally, they should be consumed within 24 hours of purchase. You can freeze asparagus after blanching 2-4 minutes in boiling water.

Preparation: Wash asparagus thoroughly under cool running water to remove any sand or dirt. Pat dry with a clean soft cloth. The tip of the asparagus is very tender, but the further down you go on the stalk, the tougher it gets. If you bend the asparagus it will naturally snap at the point where it goes from tender to tough (which is usually about 1/3 of the stalk). To ensure even cooking the large asparagus stalks should be peeled so that they are the same width as the tip. Really thin asparagus do not need peeling.

Cooking Methods: Asparagus can be served many ways: hot or cooled to room temperature.  Michel Jean of Stissing House tells me that he uses a vegetable peeler to create shavings of raw garden fresh asparagus which he then sprinkles onto his salads.  Steamed they can be added to pizzas, soups, salads, and pasta, enjoyed plain with a bit of butter, salt and pepper or served with a simple vinaigrette sauce.  If not serving hot, spears should quickly be placed in a bowl of ice water or in a colander under cold running water so they will not loose their bright green color. Asparagus can be cooked in various methods. In each the cooking time varies according to the thickness of the stems. They should be soft enough to bite into easily but al dente enough to still hold their shape. They must be drained to remove all excess water. Boiling: Place salted water in a pot on the stove and when boiling starts add asparagus for about 4-5 minutes. (This is easier if they are tied in bunches.) Once plated, sprinkle salt and pepper over it and serve hot.  Steaming: Bring 1 inch water to boil in a steamer. Place asparagus in basket, cover and steam over medium-high heat until asparagus spears are slightly undercooked, 3- 4 minutes for medium spears. Microwaving: place the stems in a microwave safe dish. Add about one-fourth of a cup of water and cover.. Then cook it for 5-7 minutes. If you are using chopped asparagus, 4-5 minutes should be enough. Roasting: Pre-heat oven to 400F. Rub oven tray or pan with some oil and place the asparagus in.  Sprinkle with some pepper, garlic and salt. And cook for 8-10 minutes.

Wine Pairings
Asparagus does not pair well with most wines – the best are Gewurztraminer, Pinot Grigio or a Chenin Blanc.

Asparagus Vinaigrette
1 Tablespoon of Dijon Mustard. (I prefer, Maille, sold at Marona’s)
¹/₃ Cup of Red Wine Vinegar (I like Dal Raccolta Old Chianti Vinegar which I buy it at Quattros
1 Cup of Vegetable Oil (I use Peant Oil from Marona’s)
Salt And Fresh Ground Pepper

There are several ways to prepare a vinaigrette but the classical recipe is to slowly add 3 parts of oil at room temperature to 1 part of vinegar, using a whisk, until it emulsifies into a creamy sauce. For this recipe, place mustard at bottom of bowl, add vinegar and season.with salt and pepper before you add the oil (because salt does not mix with oil). Add 1/3 of oil. Whisk until thickens. Add 2nd third of oil. Whisk until thicker. Add last third of oil. Whisk again. VOILA! French Salad Dressing! (By adding the oil in three parts and whisking in between, if the sauce should break apart, you’ll be able to whisk it back together again).

Bring 1 inch water to boil in a steamer. Place asparagus in steamer basket, cover and steam over medium-high heat until asparagus spears are slightly undercooked, about 2-3 minutes for medium spears. Drain and plunge spears immediately into ice water to stop the cooking process. Serve plated with the sauce napped over the tips of the asparagus or on a large serving  platter with the sauce in a gravy boat on the side.

Asparagus with Poached Eggs & Parmesan
Makes 4 servings.

2 pounds asparagus cut into 5- to 6-inch lengths
Sea salt, or “fleur de sel”
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil  
Freshly ground black pepper 
4 large fresh farm eggs 
1 cup (lightly packed) parsley leaves
chopped, grated or shaved parmesan at room temperature
truffle shavings (optional)


Cook spears in boiling salted water until just tender, approximately 4 minutes for medium stalks. Remove from heat, drain, and toss with olive oil and salt and pepper. Divide asparagus among 4 dinner plates and keep warm. In a separate skillet bring about 2 inches of water to a boil and then turn down to a simmer. Add a tablespoon of white vinegar. (Vinegar helps the egg hold its shape.  Without it, the eggs will become skeins of protein tangling up in the water. Do not add salt, which would loosen the whites.) Break each egg onto a separate small cups. Quickly slip all eggs carefully into simmering water by lowering the lip of each egg cup a half inch below the surface of the water. Let the eggs flow out. Immediately cover with a lid and turn off the heat. Set a timer for exactly three minutes for medium-firm yolks. Lift each perfectly poached egg from the water with a slotted spoon, but hold it over the skillet briefly to let any water clinging to the egg drain off.  Place a warm poached egg on top of each asparagus portion; dab with a paper towel to soak up any visible water. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, parsley and parmesan. Serve immediately. Optional:  Shave a few slices of truffle over the egg with a truffle slicer or a vegetable peeler. The warmth of the egg will release the wonderful aroma of the truffle.

If you have tried any of my recipes let me know how it went at RonaBoyer@gmail.com

The Secret to Spring Lamb – Keep it Simple!

Lamb is sold year round, but is so much better in the Spring, that I only roast it in the months from April to August.  Lamb is young sheep less than one year old. The very best is “milk-fed lamb” which is from an un-weaned lamb, typically 4-6 weeks old. This is very hard to get as most Americans will not pay the price. Almost as good, and almost as rare is “baby lamb” - a milk-fed lamb between 6-8 weeks old. Most of us can get and enjoy “spring lamb” - a milk-fed lamb, usually 2-5 months old, born in late winter or early spring, fed on the first grass of the season and sold by summer’s end. Anything older than a year is no longer lamb, but mutton which has a gamey flavor. American lamb, usually corn fed, is generally milder in flavor than grass fed Australian and New Zealand lamb. In spring, the French love “Navarin D’Agneau”. It is composed of spring lamb and all the new spring vegetables (fresh peas, turnips, baby carrots, etc). making it is too work intensive to explain here, but I do know that it is being served in April at La Mangeoire in Manhattan and Stissing House in Pine Plains.  Here are six secrets to simply roasting spring lamb:
Secret #1/.
The most important thing to remember is to not over-cook it or over prepare it. Spring lamb has such wonderful flavor and is naturally so tender, that it will be good as long as it is still a little pink inside. I believe it a shame to muck it up with marinades that denature the meat. (That trick is for older lamb).
Secret #2/.
Lamb is best when cooked on the bone, basted with its own natural juices and served piping hot.
Secret #3/.
Like all meat, lamb should be at room temperature when placed in the oven.
Secret #4/.
Roasting (the cooking method of choice for large cuts of tender meat) is done in a shallow, uncovered pan, preferably with the meat raised slightly on a rack to allow heated air to circulate around it and au jus to be formed from the drippings.
Secret # 5/.
In general, a roast should have a crisp brown surface and a juicy pink interior. This is accomplished by searing the meat at high heat in the oven for about 10 minutes and then reducing to 350ºF. Cooking times (after the roast is seared) are: 10 minutes/lb for rare meat, 12 for medium-rare, 15 for medium, and 20 for well-done. My personal favorite is 11 minutes per pound which is for the rare side of medium rare.
Secret #6:
Allow lamb to rest, loosely covered with foil for 10 to 20 minutes after removal from the oven. This rest period minimizes the loss of juice and allows the meat to become a bit firmer, making carving much easier. Cooking will continue during the resting period so that internal temperature will rise at least 5º- 10ºF.

Serve with green beans, roasted tomatoes, zucchini au gratin or potatoes. You can find these recipes at my blog: http://atablewithrona.blogspot.com. Comments are appreciated at ronaboyer@gmail.com.

Roast Leg of Lamb on the Bone (serves 6-8 people)

1 bone in leg of lamb
8 cloves organic garlic, halved
fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon freshly ground organic black pepper
1 teaspoon coarse unrefined sea salt
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, sliced into long thin strips

At least 2 hrs before cooking, cut 16 slits, about an inch deep, all over the top and sides of the lamb. Push a piece of garlic into each slit, as deep as it will go. Lightly rub olive oil over the surface of the lamb and season with salt, pepper and rosemary.  Preheat the oven to 425F.  Place the lamb on its rack in the roasting pan, fat side up. Roast the lamb for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, baste with the pan drippings, place shallots under the lamb and return to the oven. Cook for another 10 minutes. The drippings should begin to caramelize the shallots. Add ½ cup of water to the bottom of the roasting pan and mix with the shallots. Baste the lamb. Return to the oven, After 10 minutes remove the pan from the oven, baste with the pan drippings, and return to the oven. Turn the heat down to 300 degrees. Cook for another 30 to 50 minutes, depending on how you like your lamb - basting every 15 minutes and adding ½ cup water each time if needed to keep the juices liquid.  This liquid is what is called “au jus”. If you need more, just add some water and reduce.Spoon over meat and/or serve in a gravy boat.

Rack of Lamb (serves 6-8 people)
2 racks of spring lamb, frenched by your butcher. 
salt, pepper, olive oil

Rack of lamb is expensive but wonderful. You may need to order it from your butcher in advance. It is the eight lamb chops left together for cooking purposes and then cut into chops for serving. Cooking them as a rack improves the flavor, makes them easier to cook for a larger number of people, produces more rare or medium rare meat and makes a better presentation.

Remove lamb racks from refrigerator 1-2 hours before cooking. Preheat oven to 400°F. Rub the racks with olive oil, salt and pepper. Score the fat, by making sharp shallow cuts through the fat, spaced about an inch apart. Sprinkle the rack all over with salt and pepper. Place the two racks standing up with the meat on the bottom and the bones crossing each other. Roast at 400°F for 7 minutes, then lower the heat to 350°F. Cook for 8-12 minutes longer (until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat shows 125°F for rare or 135°F for medium rare). Remove from oven, loosely cover with foil and let rest for 5-10 minutes. Cut lamb chops away from the rack by slicing between the bones. Serve 2-3 chops per person.

Serve with:

Zucchini Au Gratin
3 lbs of zucchini
3 eggs (beaten)
8 oz Crème Fraiche (Vermont brand, I buy at Adam’s – or mix 4oz  of heavy cream with 4oz of sour cream). 
5 oz of grated Swiss Cheese
Butter, Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg
Rinse and dry zucchini (do not peal). Cut into large cubes. Cook in salted boiling water for 15-20 minutes. Drain and squeeze in a colander to remove excess water. Place zucchini in a buttered oven dish and mash with a fork. In a separate bowl mix beaten eggs, cream and ¾ of the cheese and some salt, pepper and nutmeg.. Add mixture to zucchini and mix with a fork.  Sprinkle the rest of the cheese over the top. Place in preheated oven (350F) until it is golden brown. (30- 40 minutes) 

Slow Roasted Tomatoes

Cherry, grape or small Plum tomatoesWhole cloves of garlic (One for every 4 tomatoes)Olive OilFresh Thyme

Preheat oven to 225F. Halve each tomato..(crosswise for round ones, lengthwise for long ones). Line a baking sheet with parchment and place the tomatoes cut side up on top with cloves of garlic interspersed amongst the tomatoes. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with thyme. Bake in the oven for 2hrs and 45 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Tip:
If you have only one oven, make the tomatoes in the morning and keep at room temperature (Tent with aluminum foil). Bake the zucchini au gratin (when cooled wrap with aluminum foil). While lamb is resting and being carved put the gratin and the tomatoes both back in the hot oven (350F)  and reheat before serving. 

Gerard’s wine suggestions:
La Gardonne, Medoc 2003 – majority Merlot, blackberry and cherry aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with silky tannins and a medium finish. $15.99 @ Arlington Wine & Liquor
Présidial, Bordeaux 2009 – 100% Merlot, blackberry with some mineral and floral character. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a clean, fresh finish. $18.99 @ Pine Plains Fine Wines – discount on quantity
Prieur de Meyney, St-Estephe 2005 – “majority Cabernet Sauvignon, this is the second wine from Chateau Meynet. A great red with structure and finesse. $22.99 @ Arlington Wine & Liquor
Bourgogne Pinot Noir Laforet 2007, Joseph Drouhin – « the hue has usually a brilliant ruby-garnet color. The nose offers effusive aromas of crushed berries. On the palate, the wine is full of charm and very pleasant to drink : fresh and fruity - $14.99@ Arlington Wine & Liquor.
Nuits St Georges 2006, Nicolas Potel – “this is very “Nuits” in character with an intensely wild nose of earthy and lightly spiced crushed dark berries. Rich, full and admirably fresh flavor underpinned by good energy on the delicious, serious and sappy finish that is firmly structured. Exceptionally priced for Easter at $39.99 instead of $52.99 @ Arlington Wine & Liquor
 

Secrets of Cooking Today’s Pork

After 20 years of living, cooking and eating in France, Italy and Portugal, I came back to the US and had to adjust to cooking with mostly American ingredients. The single greatest disappointment was anything I cooked with pork. During the years I had been away American pork had changed. Pigs were bred to be less fatty and pork was marketed “as the other white meat.” With this 50% leaner pork - all of my recipes produced dried out pork meat. Here is how I learned to adjust!
Secret # 1 - Fat Content
Look for the most marbled pork you can find. Where you can actually see fat within the meat or have the butcher bard it with lard for cooking.  You don’t have to eat the fat – but you must cook with it to produce juicy and tender meat.
Secret #2 - Do not overcook.
Old recipes tell you to cook pork until it is at 170F which means “well done”. Pork meat has always been safe to eat at 137F, but since the meat had such high fat content it was still juicy when well done. Today, the National Pork Producer’s Council & USDA recommend cooking pork to "medium" or an internal temperature of 160F. They suggest removing large cuts of pork such as roasts, from the oven at 155F and letting the meat continue to cook from its own heat while resting for a few minutes before carving.  
Secret #3 - Pork Stock
Pork stock is time consuming to make and relatively rare to find. Consequently many recipes call for water or chicken stock to baste a roast or create a sauce. But water or chicken stock dilutes the pork flavor, so I use Kitchen Basic’s Pork Stock. (Marona’s now carries it.)

Wine pairings:
Millbrook Winery Cabernet Franc 2008 (18% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 75% Cabernet Franc),with aromas of berries and cocoa with earthy undertones. A good Cabernet Franc to drink a bit cool. $15 @ Village Wine in Millbrook.

Chinon Couly-Dutheil La Coulee Automnale 2007 from the Loire Valley (100% Cabernet Franc).  $12.99 @ Alrlington Wine & Liquor.

Here are two pork recipes – use these secrets and either wine with both!

Pork Rib Roast with Braised Red Cabbage
Serves 6-8

Rack of Pork – One chop per person
(Paul at Marona’s barded &“frenched” it for me.)

16 fl oz of Pork Stock
1 Glass of Red Wine.
Salt, Pepper

Pork Fat or Butter & Oil
1 Red Cabbage (cored and sliced)
2 Apples (peeled and sliced)
1 Sweet Onion (sliced & separated into rings)
1 Cup Cider Vinegar
1/2 Cup Sugar
1 Tablespoon Butter
4 Teaspoons Cornstarch
 
Preheat oven to 350F. Place roasting pan (not Pyrex) on the stove. Melt fat and brown pork roast on all sides. Place in hot oven. Roast 20 minutes per pound basting every 15 minutes with some of the stock.  In a dutch oven toss cabbage, apples and onion. Add 1½ cups of water, vinegar, sugar, butter and salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer for an hour and a half.  When meat is done (should be 155F) remove from pan. Allow to rest 10 minutes outside the oven tented (covered loosely) with a piece of aluminum foil while you make the sauce. Put the roasting pan back on the stove. Add wine and scrape the bottom of pan as the liquid reduces.

Dilute 4 teaspoons of cornstarch in 4 teaspoons of boiling stock. Add half to the cabbage, bring back to boil for two minutes. Remove from heat and keep covered. Add the other half to the pan juices to thicken the sauce. Whisk. Add rest of stock ¼ cup at a time to pan. Keep whisking. Remove bard from roast and cut in between the ribs to give each portion one chop. Serve on a hot platter. Spoon some of the sauce over the meat and the rest in a gravy boat.  Serve with the braised red cabbage and mashed potatoes.

Pork Tenderloin with Apples & Potatoes

(Inspired by a Guy Savoy recipe)

Serves 4
2 tenderloins of pork
2 lbs Small Potatoes
(Yukon, White Creamers or Red-
Washed and boiled in salted water for 25 minutes. Drained and left to cool in their skins)
1 Apple (peeled and cut first in quarters and then each quarter in thirds lengthwise). 

1 Onion (peeled and diced)
½ cup of lemon juice

1 cup of apple juice
8 fluid ounces of Pork Stock

Butter, Sugar, Chopped Parsley, Salt & Pepper

Brown the tenderloins in butter on all sides for about 10 minutes.  Add the diced onion and let cook for about 20 minutes. Peel the cooled potatoes. In separate skillets, brown the potatoes in melted butter for about 10 minutes and the apple pieces for about 5 minutes. Mix the lemon and apple juices. Remove meat from skillet and keep warm. Pour  juices into the hot skillet, scraping the bottom to get meat flavors to dissolve into the liquid. Add a teaspoon of sugar and ½ of the stock. Whisk. As it thickens add the rest of the stock and keep whisking until it forms a glossy slightly thick sauce. Slice meat and serve on a warm plate with the potatoes on one side and the apples on the other. Nap with the sauce. 

Pasta - Italian Style

Before I lived in France for 15 years, I lived in Italy for 2. There, I ate pasta everyday, often twice a day! I have never been so thin in my entire life, neither before nor since. So, I do not believe that pasta is fattening.  I learned from my Italian friends that the art of making pasta is a bit more complicated than we seem to think. Here are some simple guidelines and tips.

Matching pasta shapes with sauce…

There are many different shapes of pasta because there are many different textures and consistencies of sauce.  Long thin strands (spaghetti, etc) are best with smooth sauces or pestos. Wider long noodles, such as fettuccine and tagliatelle are well suited to creamy sauces like Alfredo.  Short tubular or molded pasta shapes with non-smooth surfaces are made to trap chunkier sauces. Sauces with small to medium chunks are perfect with fusilli or penne.  Sauces with very large chunks are best with shells, rigatoni, or other large tubes.

Boiling the Water

No kidding. There is a right way and many wrong ways! Pasta must be cooked in a great deal of well salted boiling water. About 4 quarts of water with at least one tablespoon of salt for one pound of pasta is the general rule. Check the instructions on the box for how long it should cook, remember that timing starts once the water has started to boil again after the pasta has been submerged. Do not add oil (it prevents the sauce from sticking properly to the pasta). Do not rinse the pasta; it washes away the starch and makes the pasta taste watery.

Easy but delicious Meatballs
I used to mix three or four types of meat to make meatballs which were then baked in the oven before adding to the sauce. Recently, I learned a much easier and better tasting recipe. Just 1 lb of ground beef mixed with finely chopped onions, parsley, 2 tablespoons of plain bread crumbs soaked in 3 tablespoons of water, and one beaten egg (I like to add a tablespoon or two of Parmesan cheese). Make medium size meatballs by rubbing in the palms of your hands and dropping into simmering tomato sauce to cook for about 45 minutes.  Makes about 12-15 medium sized meatballs.

Easy but delicious Tomato Sauce
I also spent many years making my own sauce for hours on end with many different combinations of ingredients.  It was never better than what I do now in just a few minutes.  One jar of Paul Newman’s Tomato & Basil sauce (Marona’s carries it) mixed with two cans of Del Monte stewed tomatoes (One Italian Style and the other Original Style). Blend together with a mixer. Let simmer on the stove with some fresh basil if you have it.  (This makes enough sauce for a pound and a half of pasta which feeds 6 people).

The wines:
Let us succumb to the charms of a superb Chianti Classico (100% Sangiovese) - a dry red wine full of sun and plenty of fruit.

Chianti Barone Ricasoli 2008

Intense ruby red.Chianti with its full body minerality and tanginess.with floral hints and the spices of cloves, pepper, chocolate and wild cherries.  $13.99

Viticcio Chianti Classico 2006

A rich, sensual wine bursting with sour dark cherries, French oak, new leather and flowers. The wine’s inner perfume emerges with melding beautifully into the soft, creamy finish. $19.99
Chianti, Fattoria Lucignano 2008

Medium intensity ruby red. Intense nose, overflowing with fruity aromas of black cherry and violets. Soft and medium bodied on the palate it balances its tannins with moderate acidity. $13.99/btl - $21.99 magnum
All three wines can be found at Cascade Spirit Ship in Amenia.

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