Friday, April 27, 2012

Deviled Eggs



Ingredients

1 dozen large farm fresh eggs
1 cup of peanut oil (or canola oil)
1 egg yolk
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon yellow mustard
3 dashes of Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
Salt & Pepper
Optional Garnishes:  Chopped chives, parsley, fresh dill, fresh basil, paprika, and/or caviar, chopped smoked salmon, chopped baby shrimp etc.
Directions
In a medium saucepan, cover the eggs with cold water and bring to a rolling boil. Cover, remove from the heat and let stand for 12 minutes.
Immediately drain the eggs and gently shake the pan to lightly crack the shells. Fill the pan with cold water and shake lightly to loosen the eggshells. Let stand until the eggs are cool.
While eggs are cooling, place mustards and egg yolk in the bottom of a small bowl.  Whisk. Add salt & pepper. Slowly drizzle a little oil into egg yolk mixture whisking briskly. As the sauce thickens and lightens it is emulsifying. Continue to whisk as you slowly drizzle the rest of peanut oil into the mixture. It should become thick and fluffy holding its own shape. Whisk in vinegar. Congratulations! You just made your own mayonnaise, and I am willing to bet that it is better than anything you can find in a jar!

Drain and peel the eggs; pat dry. Cut the eggs in half lengthwise. Carefully transfer the yolks to a mini processor. Add half of the mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce and pulse until smooth and creamy.

Fill the cooked egg whites with the yolk mixture. Arrange the eggs on a platter, be creative with the toppings and garnish with any of the above garnishes or try some of your own.  serve.
MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared in advance and refrigerated without the garnishes. Serve chilled or at room temperature. You may use the rest of the mayonnaise during the next 24 hours.

.� � a e �M �bN over the saucepan of simmering water and whisk constantly and vigorously until the yolks are thickened and light, about 3 to 4 minutes. (If the eggs begin to scramble, or the mixture is cooking very quickly or gets too hot, remove the bowl from the heat and whisk to cool). Remove the eggs from the heat and whisk for 30 seconds to cool slightly.
Remove the saucepan from the heat and set the bowl over the hot water. Slowly drizzle the butter into the eggs while whisking constantly. Whisk in the lemon juice, salt, and pepper, to taste. (If the sauce is very thick, add a few drops of warm water to adjust the consistency so it is creamy and light.) Keep the hollandaise sauce in a small bowl set over warm, but not hot water, for the time it takes you to make the eggs and muffins.
Pour enough water into 2 large skillets to reach a depth of about 3 inches, and divide the vinegar between them. Bring both skillets to a gentle simmer over medium heat.
Place the English muffin halves on a cookie sheet. On each half spread one teaspoon of ham spread and a slice of pancetta. Put into the oven to toast.
Crack an egg into a cup and carefully slide it into the hot poaching liquid. Quickly repeat with all the eggs. Poach the eggs, turning them occasionally with a spoon, until the whites are firm, or to the desired degree of doneness, about 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs and transfer to a kitchen towel. Lightly dab the eggs with the towel to remove any excess water.
To serve, divide the toasted English muffin halves with ham and pancetta on to 6 warmed plates. Set an egg on top of each. Spoon the hollandaise sauce over the eggs and garnish with the chives, cayenne pepper or chopped parsley.  Serve immediately.

Lou’s Eggs Benedict

photo by John Olson

We are about 6 couples who gather each Easter morning to paint eggs. Lou hides them and then while the rest of us are out hunting for them, he prepares his famous Eggs Benedict for us. Since there are no children at this event and we each tend to consume a few Mimosas before brunch, we have a really good time.  This year, instead of hunting, I assisted him by stirring and serving the Hollandaise sauce and took copious notes to report back to you. We may not go to church on Easter morning, but with that Hollandaise sauce- we still had a religious experience. 


Ingredients (For 6 people)
Water

1/2 cup distilled vinegar, divided
12 large eggs
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
12 slices pancetta (the original recipe calls for Canadian bacon)
6 plain English muffins, split

1 can of Underwood Deviled Ham Spread
3 sticks of unsalted butter

2 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons cold water
1 tablespoon strained freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper or a pinch of cayenne pepper

Chopped fresh chives or parsley

Directions

Preheat oven to 400F
First make the Hollandaise sauce: In a medium pan, completely melt the butter over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and set it aside for 5 minutes. Skim and discard the white foam that rises to the surface of the butter. Carefully ladle or pour the clear golden butter into a container with a pouring spout. Take care not to add the milky solids and watery liquid at the bottom of the saucepan. Set the butter aside in a warm spot. Pour enough water into a medium saucepan to reach a depth of about 2 inches. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. In a double boiler (or heatproof bowl over a saucepan) combine the egg yolks and the cold water. Whisk until the yolks are light and frothy. Place the bowl over the saucepan of simmering water and whisk constantly and vigorously until the yolks are thickened and light, about 3 to 4 minutes. (If the eggs begin to scramble, or the mixture is cooking very quickly or gets too hot, remove the bowl from the heat and whisk to cool). Remove the eggs from the heat and whisk for 30 seconds to cool slightly.
Remove the saucepan from the heat and set the bowl over the hot water. Slowly drizzle the butter into the eggs while whisking constantly. Whisk in the lemon juice, salt, and pepper, to taste. (If the sauce is very thick, add a few drops of warm water to adjust the consistency so it is creamy and light.) Keep the hollandaise sauce in a small bowl set over warm, but not hot water, for the time it takes you to make the eggs and muffins.
Pour enough water into 2 large skillets to reach a depth of about 3 inches, and divide the vinegar between them. Bring both skillets to a gentle simmer over medium heat.
Place the English muffin halves on a cookie sheet. On each half spread one teaspoon of ham spread and a slice of pancetta. Put into the oven to toast.
Crack an egg into a cup and carefully slide it into the hot poaching liquid. Quickly repeat with all the eggs. Poach the eggs, turning them occasionally with a spoon, until the whites are firm, or to the desired degree of doneness, about 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs and transfer to a kitchen towel. Lightly dab the eggs with the towel to remove any excess water.
To serve, divide the toasted English muffin halves with ham and pancetta on to 6 warmed plates. Set an egg on top of each. Spoon the hollandaise sauce over the eggs and garnish with the chives, cayenne pepper or chopped parsley.  Serve immediately.


Home Made Ravioli

photo by Jen Boyer
For years, I have been thinking about buying a pasta maker, but was intimidated by the complex choice and did not know which would be best for me.  We have always loved ravioli- meat ravioli I mean. ..but they have become hard to find. Fresh or frozen, stores are filled with cheese raviolis and offer mushroom, butternut squash, even lobster ravioli….but no old fashioned meat ravioli!  I was lamenting about this to one of my aqua-aerobic partners, Susan Quigley of Clinton Corners. Today she manages art collections for museums, galleries and private collectors, but in a former life, she was a chef.  “I make my own- it’s easy!” she responded.  I went over to Susan’s and she taught me to make ravioli. We made duck ravioli and since then I have made beef ravioli for which I offer you the recipe.

We made them by hand and they were delicious. I am told, by an expert that most pasta making machines are not good for meat ravioli because the raviolis are too thick to get through the machine, which would explain why they are so hard to find. Susan’s suggestion of rolling our own dough by hand seemed like a good solution. She and I rolled dough and cut and filled the pasta for over an hour and the two of us made enough for four servings. Very happy with the results, a week later I repeated the recipe at home and found that alone making them for 6 servings took me all morning and I was so tired by the time my luncheon guests arrived, that I vowed to buy a pasta maker! But, at least now I know I want the one that will let me easily make thin flat dough and then I can cut and fill the raviolis myself.
In any event- enjoy. They are fabulous! The problem is that my family keeps asking for more!


Making the Pasta  (hours, days or weeks before cooking).
(6 servings)
2 cups pasta flour (Hodgson Mill, Golden Semolina or Extra Fancy Durum Pasta Flour)

2 large eggs, whole
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp. sea salt
3 tablespoons water

(egg white mixed with water to seal edges)


Combine all ingredients in a food processor and mix on “dough” speed for 30 seconds. Check consistency and add a small amount of flour if pasta is too wet to form a ball, or a small amount of water if pasta is too dry. Process another 30 seconds to incorporate any additions. Turn dough out onto a work surface sprinkled lightly with flour and knead by hand until smooth. Roll into a ball and flatten slightly.  Refrigerate, tightly wrapped in plastic until filling is ready (see fillings below)


When ready to make the raviolis, cut the pasta into quarters and then halves again. Roll one piece until really thin - about 1/16 of an inch. Cut the pasta into rectangles about 2“ x 4" or cut out circles with a cookie cutter or rim of a glass. Roll out a little thinner (if they are not thin enough). Put a good sized teaspoon of filling just off center. Dip your finger in egg white mixture and run it around 1/2 of the edge to moisten. Pull top flap over filling and stretch if needed to make a rectangle or half moon.  Pinch edges together with fingers and seal the open edges by pressing fork tines into them. Turn over and seal again. Place on a cookie sheet and freeze. Repeat until all of the pasta is used.

When frozen, remove from cookie sheet, and pop into salted boiling water or store frozen in a freezer bag until you want to use them.




Meat Filling
Ingredients

1 lb raw chopped meat or leftover chopped cooked  beef  or a combination there of

1 onion chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves of garlic (minced)
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped basil (optional)
2 Tablespoon tomato paste

Salt & Pepper

Directions:
Heat olive oil in a pan. Sautee the chopped onion until translucent. Add garlic  Add chopped meat and stir. Allow meat to brown. Drain. Add tomato paste, salt, pepper, and herbs. Run through a food processor so the meat is finely chopped.

Easy Tomato Sauce
Ingredients

2 cans of Del Monte Italian Style stewed tomatoes

2 cans of Del Monte Original Style stewed tomatoes
2 tablespoon fresh basil
Directions:
Blend together with a mixer, leaving the tomatoes a bit chunky add salt, pepper and fresh basil.  Let simmer on the stove for about 10 minutes.


Putting it together – Just before serving
Boil a large pot of water. Add salt (a tablespoon!) When water is in a strong boil add all the frozen ravioli at once and boil until done. For mine it took 4 minutes once the water started boiling again- but that will depend upon the exact size of the ravioli- you need to test them. They should be slightly al dente- not overcooked.   Drain the ravioli. Serve with a few ladles of the sauce and a sprig of basil in the center and the extra sauce in a gravy boat on the side.








Sunday, April 1, 2012

My Mother’s Brisket (A great meal to cook if you do not know how to cook)

My mother was not a good cook. My father criticized her cooking so much that one day was I was about 9, she took off her apron saying ‘That’s it! I am done cooking for you!”  She left the kitchen in a huff and my father entered. He became our short order cook and franks and beans, salads, sandwiches, French toast and an occasional London Broil with fries became our nightly fare. Except on Passover when my mother made her fabulous brisket. I have had brisket many times, many places but it was never better than hers. Here was her very easy, fool proof secret recipe. The roasting time may vary according to the weight and shape of the brisket – so be alert to the TIPS to avoid burning and make sure you leave yourself enough time to fully cook it.


INGREDIENTS 

One whole brisket (4-5 lbs) - not trimmed- leave as much fat on as you can- it will cook in its fat and then you will trim before serving 
Two packages of Lipton Onion Soup (Or Lipton’s onion recipe secrets) 


DIRECTIONS 

Preheat oven to 325F 

Line a large oven proof roasting pan with aluminum foil. Place the contents of one envelope of onion mix over the aluminum foil. Place the brisket on the onion mix and add two more envelopes to the top of the brisket. Add one cup of water. Add a second sheet of aluminum foil and join the two layers of foil at the edges so that the brisket is sealed in it without being wrapped tightly. 

Roast for about 4 hours. The fat will melt to combine with the water and hydrate the onion mix so that the brisket is braising in some liquid at all times. TIP: If there was not enough fat on the meat, you may have to add a cup of water every 20-30 minutes. 

The meat will be fork tender when done. TIP: if meat is not tender, continue cooking in a bit of braising liquid until it is. Remove brisket and rewrap with aluminum foil to rest while preparing the gravy and finishing up the sides. TIP: Meat will stay warm for up to 30 minutes wrapped in the foil. 

Strain the juices, add one cup of water and reduce the liquid. Mix two teaspoons of cornstarch with two tablespoons of the heated juices. When the starch is dissolved, add the mixture to the juices and stir. It will thicken as it reduces. Pour into gravy bowl when the consistency is slightly thick. 

Trim the fat off of brisket and slice against the grain. Place the slices on a warm serving platter and spoon a bit of gravy over the slices. 

Serve with mashed or roasted potatoes or broad noodles and some boiled carrots on the side. 













Gigot d'Agneau A La Francaise (Roast Leg Of Lamb French-Style)

The trditional dish, served all over France at Easter lunch. 





Ingredients

1 leg of lamb, 8 to 9 pounds
1 tablespoon corn, peanut or vegetable oil
Salt to taste, if desired
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
2 large cloves garlic, each cut into 16 slivers
2 onions, cut crosswise in half
2 bay leaves
1 carrot, trimmed, scraped and cut crosswise into 6 pieces


Preparation

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Have the butcher remove and set aside the hipbone of the lamb. Rub the meat all over with the oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper and the thyme. Make 16 gashes in the flesh of the leg and insert the garlic slivers. Place the leg, the thickest side down, in a roasting pan and scatter around it the hipbone, onion halves (cut side down), bay leaves and carrot pieces. Place in the oven and roast one hour. Remove the lamb and pour off the fat from the pan. Return the lamb to the pan, the thickest side up. Pour one cup of water into the pan and continue baking 30 minutes for medium-rare lamb (135 degrees internal temperature). If you wish the lamb well done, continue cooking 30 minutes or longer. Remove the lamb from the oven, discarding the vegetables, cover with foil and let it stand for 20 minutes before carving. |

Ingredients

2 lbs of haricots verts
2 lbs of Fingerling potatoes
1 pound dried flageolet beans, about 2 cups
3 sprigs of parsley
1 carrot, about 1/4 pound
1 onion, about 1/4 pound, stuck with 2 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
Salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper to taste
4 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
1cup finely chopped parsley
1 cup heavy cream

 

DIRECTIONS

Flageolets:
Day before:  Put the flageolets in a mixing bowl and add cold water to cover about two inches above the top of the beans. Let stand overnight. Drain the beans and put them in a kettle. Add the eight cups of water, the carrot and the onion stuck with cloves. Tie the celery, parsley sprigs and bay leaf into a bundle and add it. Add the thyme, salt and pepper. Bring to the boil. Cover and let simmer two hours or slightly less until the flageolets are tender. Remove and discard the onion, celery, parsley and bay leaf. Remove the carrot and cut it into small cubes. Set aside. Drain the beans but reserve one- half cup of the cooking liquid. Set aside.

10 Minutes before serving:

Heat the butter in a large skillet and add the garlic and shallots. Cook briefly, stirring, and add the beans, chopped parsley, carrot and cream. Let simmer five minutes and serve. 

Haricots Verts
AHEAD OF TIME: Prepare string bean by snapping off the 4ends and taring them from one end to the other removing and strings. Place in salted cold water and bring to boil. When beans are soft, strain.
5 minutes befor4e serving, melt 1 tablespoon f butter in a casserole and war the bean in the butter. Add salt, pepper and chopped parsley before serving.

Sauteed Fingerling Potatoes.
AHEAD OF TIME: Place in salted boiling water and until cooked. Remove, drain and allow to cool. Remove skins and 10 minutes before serving, melt butter in a pan and warm up potatoes until they are golden brown. Add salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Serve.

Gerard’s Wine Suggestions:
Lamb is a savory yet refined and textured meat demands a wine with personality, good strong structure and distinct flavor. I choose, therefore, Bordeaux wines as much of France will this week. Our local wine merchants suggest the following:

Cahors Clos de la Coutale 2009 : this blend of Malbec, Merlot and Tannat offers rich and plum flavors enhanced by subtle notes of vanilla from it’s oak aging. A beautiful dry, but fruity-forward red wine with nice balance. $15.99 @ Arlington Wine
Graves Chateau Haut-Vigneau 2009 : Wonderfully expressive and notable for its engaging red currant and fresh herb flavors. This is a youthful red from Pessac-Leognan, but still quite drinkable now. $20.99 @ Arlington Wine
St Julien Chateau Lalande Borie 2006 : A refined and well-known Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from the great St Julien area in Bordeaux left bank. Blackberry and mocha flavors mingle on the palate, offering wonderful texture and perfect accompaniment to hearty meals. $24.99 @ Arlington Wine
Medoc Chateau Patache 2004 : Would be a great pair because of it’s balance of richness/acidity and his Cabernet Sauvignon grape. Deep earthy notes. $24 @ Village Wine
Medoc Esprit de Preuillac 2005 - $22.99 ou Château de Bensse 2008 - $24.99  @ Pine Plains Wine

Rack of Lamb

In spring, a food-lover’s fancy turns to lamb. Rack of lamb is a favorite, and so very easy to get it right. It is expensive but wonderful. You may need to order it from your butcher in advance. The rack is the eight lamb chops left together for cooking purposes and then cut into chops for serving. Cooking them as a rack on the bone improves the flavor, makes them easier to handle, produces more rare or medium rare meat and makes a much better presentation

Rack of Lamb (serves 6-8 people)
2 racks of spring lamb, frenched by your butcher.  
salt, pepper, olive oil

fresh rosemary (optional)


Remove lamb racks from refrigerator 1-2 hours before cooking. Preheat oven to 375°F.

Rub the racks with olive oil, salt and pepper. Score the fat, by making sharp shallow cuts through the fat, spaced about an inch apart. Sprinkle the rack all over with salt and pepper. Set your roasting pan (if you are using pyrex you will need to do this in a separate pan) over medium heat, and add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sear the lamb, one rack at a time, for 1 minute per side or until nicely browned.

Place the two racks standing up with the meat on the bottom and the bones crossing each other. Roast at375°F for 8 minutes, then lower the heat to 350°F. Cook for 8-12 minutes longer (until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat shows 125°F for rare or 135°F for medium rare). Remove from oven, place the racks on a carving board loosely cover with foil and let rest for 5-10 minutes while making the sauce.
Return the pan to the stove and deglaze with a glass of red wine. Allow to reduce adding some stock or water and if necessary a bit of thickener (like arrowroot or cornstarch mixed with a tablespoon of the liquid).

Cut lamb chops away from the rack by slicing between the bones. Serve 2-3 chops per person.

Serve with:

Zucchini Au Gratin
3 lbs of zucchini
3 eggs (beaten)
8 oz Crème Fraiche (Vermont brand, I buy at Adam’s – or mix 4oz  of heavy cream with 4oz of sour cream). 
5 oz of grated Swiss Cheese
Butter, Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg
Rinse and dry zucchini (Peel in stripes, leaving some of the green skin in place). Cut into large cubes. Cook in salted boiling water for 15-20 minutes. Drain and squeeze in a colander to remove all excess water.


Place zucchini in a buttered oven dish and mash with a fork. In a separate bowl mix beaten eggs, cream and ¾ of the cheese and some salt, pepper and nutmeg.. Add mixture to zucchini and mix with a fork.  Sprinkle the rest of the cheese over the top. Place in preheated oven (350F) until it is golden brown. (30- 40 minutes) 



Slow Roasted Tomatoes
Cherry, grape or small Plum tomatoes.
Whole cloves of garlic (One for every 4 tomatoes)
Olive Oil
Fresh Thyme
Preheat oven to 225F. Halve each tomato..(crosswise for round ones, lengthwise for long ones). Line a baking sheet with parchment and place the tomatoes cut side up on top with cloves of garlic interspersed amongst the tomatoes. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with thyme. Bake in the oven for 2 hrs and 45 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Tip:
If you have only one oven, make the tomatoes in the morning and keep at room temperature (Tent with aluminum foil). Bake the zucchini au gratin in the afternoon (when cooled wrap with aluminum foil) and keep at room temperature,  While lamb is resting and being carved put the gratin and the tomatoes both back in the hot oven (350F) and reheat before serving. 



Corned Beef and Cabbage

Being a traditionalist, each year I make corned beef and cabbage for St. Patrick’s Day. I used to buy the packaged corned beef and follow the directions. And that was fine. Then one year I bought brisket and “corned” it myself. 243 hours later I served it and neither myself nor my family noticed any difference. That was the end of that. Then I found the following recipe which uses the packaged corned beef but cooks it differently- and everyone raved. (Since this recipe appeared in the newspaper for St. Patrick's day, a number of readers have tried it and loved it- so go ahead!!)




INGREDIENTS

corned beef, about 5 pounds
8 medium whole new potatoes, washed and peeled,
16 small carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise
1 large cabbage, cored and cut into small wedges
Horseradish

DIRECTIONS

Preheat oven to 300°F.


Place corned beef in a large, flat baking pan or covered roaster. Add water to a depth of ¼-inch. Cover with a lid or foil and place in oven for 3 ½ to 4 hours. The beef should be very tender when tested with a large fork.

When corned beef is done, transfer to an ovenproof plate, cover with aluminum foil and hold in a warm oven. (200° F)

Pour cooking liquid into a deep kettle and add 3 cups water; bring to a boil.
Add potatoes and simmer 10 minutes.
Add carrots and simmer until just tender.
About 10 minutes before the vegetables are cooked, add cabbage wedges and cook until tender crisp.

Slice corned beef across the grain and serve on a platter surrounded by cabbages.
Transfer the potatoes and carrots to a separate bowl and serve with horseradish.

Beef & Barley Soup


Beef & Barley Soup
(4 Servings)

INGREDIENTS
4 cups of water

3 cups of beef stock
½ cup of barley
½ lb of beef, chopped into very small pieces
½ cup diced onion

½ cup diced celery
½ cup diced carrots
½ cup frozen peas
½ cup teaspoon fresh basil
1 can (14oz) of diced tomatoes
1 bay leaf
2 cloves of minced garlic
Salt and Pepper

DIRECTIONS
In a Dutch oven or large sauce pan, brown the meat. Add onion and garlic. Cook until onion is tender. Drain. Stir in celery, carrots, tomatoes, and barley. Add water and stock and seasonings. Bring to a boil. Reduce and simmer for 45 minutes.  Add peas and cook another 10 minutes. If soup gets too thick during cooking or while standing, add water.